EU Spirits: discovering the region’s hidden gems
At one of the masterclasses held in Edinburgh as part of the EU ‘More Than Only Food & Drink’ campaign, spirits advisor Kristiane Westray helped a packed house get to know some of Europe’s lesser-known, but delicious, spirits.
Safety, authenticity, sustainability and quality – all guaranteed. Those are some of the reasons why geographical indications (GIs) matter, explained spirits expert, consultant and author of Savour Kristiane Westray at a masterclass in Edinburgh, Scotland, held on 18 November as part of the EU’s ‘More Than Only Food & Drink’ campaign.
Titled ‘EU Spirits Unveiled: A Festive Journey Through Taste and Tradition’, the masterclass was designed to deepen one’s appreciation for the rich heritage and quality of EU spirits.
Before cracking into the tasting, Westray, who is an advisor for the EU’s three-year campaign, touched on the geographical indications (GIs) and the definitions of these spirits. She explained products under GIs must be made to the same exacting standard at the same place, so people know what is on the label is what they’re getting in their glass, and on their plate.
At the heart of this recognition is a sense of place, protected and celebrated by the communities behind them. Referencing data from Spirits Europe, Westray said that in Europe there are more than 250 GIs for spirits – a mind-blowing number – with the European Union’s alcoholic beverage exports reaching €29.8 billion in 2024 and spirits and liqueurs alone accounting for about €8.9 billion of the total (according to EU data), a figure she hopes “will be even higher this year”.
“That just demonstrates a lot of spirits categories might be tiny, but they’re part of this enormous business across Europe. All these tiny makers and producers are part of this bigger ecosystem – and it’s exciting,” she enthused.
Ahead of the masterclass, Westray had the tricky task of picking out just six very different – and very distinct – spirits for the crowd to sample, as well as complementary food to pair. “It isn’t just spirits,” she added of the wider purpose of the campaign. “We’re talking about cheeses, meats, fruit and veg, confectionery and baked treats as well”.
Ultimately, she chose Vodka of Finland PGI, which was paired with a chocolate-covered plum; Genever PGI from the Netherlands paired with Danbo PGI from Denmark; organic Irish Whiskey PGI was matched with Tiroler Bergkäse PDO from Austria, and Armagnac PGI from France. In addition, there was also Ouzo PGI, the anise-flavoured Greek spirit, and Pálinka PGI, a traditional Hungarian fruit brandy that Westray opted to pair with chocolate-covered cherries.
It was a diverse lineup, but this only emphasises the breadth of spirits that are coming out of the EU. “We really are only looking at the tip of the iceberg if we stick to the big spirits categories,” Westray told more 40 attendees to the masterclass. “There is so much potential to come – and it’s brilliant.”
Of Pálinka PGI, Westray noted the category gained GI status in 2008 and is a more recent recognition compared with other spirits styles. “What that did is it added so much weight internationally to the value of the category,” she explained. “For a long time it was seen as a cheaper spirit that everyone made at home, almost like home brew, but when it got its GI status people took it very seriously.”
Alongside a GI, some of the spirits sampled at the masterclass are made according to European Organic Farming Standards. Westray highlighted the importance of this and that producers also often go much further, choosing to build on top of the standards with their own organic guarantees. “It’s another confirmation of that quality that’s in your glass, which is really important,” she said.
In the audience were bartenders, members of the trade and retailers. As well as inform, the tasting aimed to equip guests with the nous on how to get creative with the spirits on show, and how to bring them into menus and cocktails.
For example, Genever PGI, which Westray noted perhaps gets less air time in the UK, yet is both full of history and incredibly fun to use. The masterclass demonstrated how the Dutch spirit could be used as a bridge between gin and tonic, and whisky and tonic. With tonic water, genever could be used for a gin lover curious about getting into whisky, and vice versa for whisky fans trying to get into gin.
“There’s just so much going on,” Westray said about genever’s potential. “You can dig into it from a story and a history perspective. You can dig into it from a flavour perspective”. At this point, a member of the crowd suggested ginger beer to partner with the spirit – and why not?
For the Ouzo PGI section of the tasting, Westray told a story of a trusted friend’s recipe who swears by combining the Greek spirit with orange juice. As the Athens bar scene continues to morph into a cocktail capital, ouzo is becoming “a cool thing to mix”. Westray encouraged the session to do the same.
“Have a play around, see what you think,” she said, as guests then headed over to the mixing station where they were able to craft their own Highballs with the spirits, followed by a wind down with their freshly made creations.
The main takeaway, Westray concluded: “These spirits might be lesser known, or maybe not as common, but they’re very easy to use, and they taste absolutely delicious.”
For more information on the EU’s ‘More Than Only Food & Drink’ campaign, visit: enjoy-its-from-europe.campaign.europa.eu.
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