Is ‘loud luxury’ the next big thing in cocktails?
Rare ingredients, dramatic presentations, luxe add-ons and sky-high price tags are redefining what it means to go out for a drink.
The Bar at Baccarat Hotel in New York has become the latest venue to jump on the ‘loud luxury’ trend, unveiling the Linea Alta Martini, which clocks in at US$5,000 per serve.
Crafted table-side, the Martini features Grey Goose Altius, the French brand’s prestige vodka, génépy – a traditional herbal liqueur – pink peppercorn tincture, and fleur de sel, a hand-harvested sea salt known for its delicate, flaky crystals and subtle flavour. The cocktail is finished with 24-carat gold leaf and served with a delicate caviar pairing.
The inspiration for the serve, Baccarat Hotels New York bar director Brandon Barnes tells The Spirits Business, was all about “capturing the feeling of elevation, both physical and emotional, into a drink. When I tasted Grey Goose Altius, the freshness reminded me of standing at the summit, the cold air hitting your lungs, and that stretch of untouched snow waiting below.”
As such, he explains he intentionally used ingredients linked to the French Alps. “Altius is crafted using spring water from the French Alps and refined through a crystallisation process at -11°F (-23°C), which gives it its smooth, mineral character. The génépy brings an herbal lift that speaks to high altitudes, and the alpine bitters help draw out the aromatic side of Altius without dulling its texture,” he says.
He adds: “The smoothness and structure from Grey Goose Altius provide the foundation for the Linea Alta. Ki No Bi Gin adds brightness and a touch of spice from its Japanese botanicals. Dolin Génépy provides a hint of alpine sweetness that mirrors the glacial source of Altius. Lastly, the pink peppercorn tincture adds a delicate warmth and aromatic complexity, and the fleur de sel helps all the flavours pop to bring everything together.”
Barnes explains that every component was chosen to harmonise with Altius and let its character lead. However, the price of the serve is not related to these ingredients, which, while premium, are not rare. “Rare and vintage spirits have their place,” he says, “but they often bring oxidised or layered notes that would distract from the expression of Altius.”
Instead, the price comes from the vessel in which the the cocktail is presented: the Baccarat Tsar glass, which was originally commissioned for Tsar Nicholas II in 1896, and it is still hand-cut in France today. Barnes explains that after enjoying the Linea Alta, the glass is sent to a location of the guest’s choosing, making it a reminder of the moment.
“So far, one guest has purchased the full Linea Alta experience with the Baccarat Tsar glass, but many have enjoyed the cocktail on its own at US$125,” he shares. “We typically keep two or three Tsar glasses on hand, but since the Baccarat boutique is located within the hotel, we can source additional pieces as needed. That flexibility allows us to accommodate demand while still keeping the offering exclusive.”
Diamond garnishes
The Linea Alta joins the likes of other ‘loud luxury’ serves to have hit menus recently, including the US$8,000 Rocks on Rocks Martini at Sag Harbor’s Dopo La Spiaggia, which is served with a five-carat diamond necklace; the US$33,000 ‘It’s Not a Bag, Its a Cocktail’ serve, made with Belvedere 10 vodka, grapefruit oil, saccharum, Lillet Blanc, and Siberian caviar, which comes presented in a Hermés Birkin bag at Papi Steak in South Beach, Miami; and the world’s most expensive cocktail, served in one of the rarest 1937 Baccarat crystal glasses ever crafted and composed of a special edition Patrón blend, Kina Lillet from 1950, and Angostura Bitters from the 1930s, which sold for €37,500 (US$41,160) at Nahaté restaurant and nightclub in Dubai earlier this summer.
The Rocks on Rocks cocktail, dubbed ‘The Hampton’s priciest cocktail’, is described as a classic Martini at heart, crafted in partnership with American luxury jeweller Jimmy The Rock Diamonds. The company’s founder, James Roccisano, told The New York Post, that gems are “now part of the garnish game”.
“Nothing says timeless luxury like a Martini,” he said. “It’s elegant, iconic and unbothered by trends. The Martini is the little black dress of cocktails, and we dressed it up with five-carats of sparkle.”
While the US$8,000 bill may seem steep to some, the publication reported on 2 July that three serves of the cocktail had been purchased so far. Furthermore, it reported that some may view the cocktail as a bargain, as the diamond necklace garnish is typically sold for approximately US$10,000, but is being offered at wholesale price as part of the cocktail. In addition, US$1,000 from the sale of each serve is donated to a charity of the consumer’s choosing.
However, the venue noted that if guests aren’t fans of a Martini, they can swap the serve out for any other cocktail of their choosing.
What cost-of-living crisis?
The question is, of course, why, in the middle of a cost-of-living crisis, are so many venues jumping on the ‘loud luxury’ bandwagon and making cocktails that cost the equivalent of a house deposit?
The answer is simple: people are buying them. Perhaps not in the same volumes as standard-priced and presented cocktails, but it only takes the sale of one US$10,000 cocktail to provide proof of concept.
Furthermore, it is worth noting that in times of economic downturn such as the one we currently find ourselves in, it is not those who are typically able to afford such luxurious and extravagant purchases that find themselves affected, but rather those who would never consider making such a lavish purchase in the first place.
None-the-less, the popularity of this trend, Barnes believes, is all down to the longing for experiences. “People want experiences that feel special, and sometimes that translates into bold statements. For me, it’s about creating something that feels elevated and memorable without losing focus on quality,” Barnes notes.
That being said, the ‘loud luxury’ cocktail trend isn’t just limited to the over-the-top showpiece cocktails that would make your bank manager’s eyes water – it can be found coming in at prices that could, after a few drinks or a successful flutter on the horses, seem almost reasonable. This has been seen with an increase in Martinis that fall somewhere in the US$50-US$150 price bracket hitting menus in cities such as New York and San Francisco, where serves at this price point can be found at Ilis in Manhattan (US$45 for the venue’s Citrus Martini) and at Empress by Boon in China Town, which uses a saffron-infused gin in its US$150 Martini.
Meanwhile, while many of the more expensive cocktails in London fall under the vintage category, earning their high price tags on account of the rarity of the spirits used within them, there are still some that fly the flag for the loud luxury trend, such as the Mulberry, found on the third volume of Artesian’s Ultimo menu, which sets punters back £50 (US$67) for its blend of Don Julio 1942, Cointreau, Amaro Santoni, mulberries and lime – a hefty price tag for a “unique take on the Margarita”.
And perhaps not unexpectedly, Nusr Et Steakhouse, the restaurant belonging to viral internet personality ‘Salt Bae’, offers a £55 (US$74) Midas Touch Gold cocktail, which sees a coupe of Zacapa XO Rum, yuzu, velvet falernum, and peach liqueur topped with a blanket of gold leaf.
Elsewhere across the city, extravagant additions are turning up the volume on luxury cocktails, with caviar bumps now a common accompaniment to cocktails, and glassware worthy of a double-take having become more over-the-top than ever.
Does this rise of ultra-premium cocktails reflect a growing appetite for exclusivity? It certainly would appear that beneath the glittering surfaces of these Instagram-worthy cocktails, the turn towards ‘loud luxury’ seems to point towards a deeper shift in modern drinking culture – one that signals status, captures attention, and curates moments worth remembering – even if it does come at a price.
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