Is this the next Tequila?
While Tequila continues to be the choice of many across the world, a lesser known spirit is stepping out of obscurity and onto the global stage.
Often labelled India’s ‘best-kept secret’, Feni is a distilled spirit originating from the Indian state of Goa. It is typically made from fermented cashew apples or coconut sap, and has been distilled for generations along the Konkan coast.
Now, London’s ‘first’ creative drinks lab and studio Room Two, which is said to be the brains behind some of the city’s ‘most-talked-about parties’, is placing Feni at the heart of the modern cocktail conversation.
“Feni has the cultural heritage of mezcal, the complexity of a fine agricole rum, and the kick of Tequila, but what surprised me most is how smooth coconut Feni is – it’s easily one of the cleanest spirits I’ve ever tried. And most people outside India have never tasted it,’’ explained Matt Kern, co-founder of Room Two. “We think that’s about to change.”
Feni was granted a geographical indication (GI) in 2009, which was renewed for a further 10 years in April 2022. It joins other Indian GIs such as Alphonso mangoes.
The two most popular styles of the spirit are cashew Feni and coconut Feni, with the former being particularly well-known.
It is made from the fruit of the cashew tree (otherwise called anacardium occidentale), which is fermented and then distilled. It is known for its fruity flavour with notes of tropical fruits and a hint of pepper, as well as a distinct nuttiness.
Meanwhile the coconut variant is made from the sap of the coconut palm, and has a different flavour profile compared with cashew Feni, which often has subtle, floral, and tropical notes.
In addition, other types of feni include botanical Feni, which is described as similar to gin, and a liqueur-style conserva Feni. There are also blended varieties of the spirit.
Feni is often distilled using traditional clay pot stills or copper stills, and is sometimes aged in miri wood tanks before bottling.
To explore its roots, the Room Two team travelled to Goa and partnered with Goenchi Feni, a family-run producer championing traditional distillation. “We were excited to get out there – to meet local mixologists and chefs, and to discover new ingredients firsthand,” Kern said.
“I was immediately drawn to Feni and the whole bar scene in Goa in general. The bartenders and chefs there are seriously dialled into their surroundings – the way they use local ingredients is on another level. It’s what makes Goa feel like one of the most exciting and progressive drink destinations in the world.”
He added: “Being surrounded by the raw materials and energy of the place gave us a real sense of what makes Feni so special. We came back with a set of cocktails that stay true to its character – bold, earthy, and full of life, but with a clean, refined twist that works beautifully in a modern setting.”
Room Two believes that Feni is set to be Gen Z’s ‘next liquid obsession’ on account of the demographic’s curiosity and experimental nature, noting that Feni’s natural production methods, unexpected flavour, and under-the-radar status make it feel like a discovery.
In addition, the company notes that the spirit boasts more than 400 years of tradition, and is often still handmade by Goan families using ancestral techniques. However, it says that unlike Tequila and mezcal, it hasn’t yet been shaped – or diluted – by international markets, making it both an heirloom spirit and a frontier category.
“It’s an untapped category – and that makes it ripe for imagination,” Kern added. “We’re always into spirits that come with a bit of chaos and a good story – and Feni’s got both. It holds its own against the best mezcals or Tequilas out there, no question. And it’s versatile – mix it with soda, fresh juice, a bit of chai, whatever’s in your fridge – it goes down incredibly easily.
“Feni’s the kind of spirit that makes you stop mid-sip and go: ‘wait, what is this?’ It’s unexpected, exciting, and definitely slept-on.”
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