Restaurant bars ‘vastly expand’ creative potential

As the complex worlds of food and drink merge ever closer, with masters of each field sharing tips, tricks and techniques, SB explores the meteoric success of restaurant bars.

*This article was first published in the March 2016 edition of The Spirits Business

The fusion of gastronomy and cocktails has become increasingly apparent in recent years, from savoury libations to food and drinks pairings. It stands to reason, then, that restaurant bars should also be experiencing a period of amelioration, earning their own, independent success within their respected venues.
Nowadays, restaurants are no longer regarded exclusively as dining destinations. Consumers are seeking to keep their options open – they want somewhere to meet for after work drinks with the possibility of indulging in a three-course dinner should the mood take their fancy, or a convenient spot to enjoy a pre-dinner apéritif.
“As the term ‘mixology’ has become part of diners’ vernacular, so too has the expectation that a great restaurant will include a great bar experience,” explains Greg Majors, executive wine and beverage director at Stake Chophouse & Bar, Coronado, California.
“Our technique and products we offer are aimed at maintaining the same level of excellence that is executed in great cocktail-focused bars and speakeasies.”
But with so many standalone bars on the market, what is the great allure of restaurant bars for consumers?

Sweet spot
For one thing, restaurant bars provide a “less daunting” option when deciding upon a meeting spot before dinner, says Aaron Gaulke, bar manager at Bennelong in Sydney. The venue boasts a beautiful, spacious, beamed interior with views overlooking the iconic Sydney Opera House. Guests vary from diners, to “curious walk-ins” and theatre-goers after a quick nightcap, or dessert with wine or Cognac.
“A restaurant that has a bar has an advantage due to the fact it becomes exceptionally easy and certainly less daunting to organise where to meet before a meal,” highlights Gaulke.
“This gives everyone a opportunity to whet their appetite, so to speak, before sitting down to the feast that awaits.”
Another positive, as noted by Spencer Large, bar operations manager at Barbecoa, London, founded by celebrity chef Jamie Oliver, is that restaurant bars often guarantee a “more sophisticated” atmosphere than you would find in a regular establishment.
“You’re much less likely to have 100-plus people in a bar acting quite as civilised,” he explains. “Don’t get me wrong, I love debauchery and fun spots to knock back shots more than most, but if I feel like a nice sit-down and chat with my friends, I don’t think you can beat the busy, yet chilled, environment restaurant bars can offer.”

The ground floor bar at Sushisamba London

The perfect pair
The role that food and drinks pairings have played in elevating the status of restaurant bars is also a key factor in their elevation, according to some bar managers. But not everyone is inagreement that this trend has contributed to the popularity and quality of these venues.
Large stresses that while food and cocktail pairings can create some “incredible results”, until they are considered “the norm” they cannot be held responsible for restaurant bars “upping their game”. Instead, he believes the upper hand is dealt to bars by the kitchen, thanks to access to a broader selection of fresh foods, cooking techniques and equipment that most bars might not otherwise have at their disposal.
For example, the Barbecoa bar team uses the kitchen’s pit smoker to smoke jalapeños before infusing them in the Paloma serve, and the Argentinian grill to char pineapples for the Charred Pineapple Mojito. Meanwhile, the bar’s moonshine is distilled with baby-back ribs and the chef’s barbecue sauce is thrown into the Bloody Mary “for good measure”.
“Restaurant bars most definitely can compete, and more often exceed standalone bars, albeit not necessarily due to the skill of the bar staff,” he elucidates. “There is more ready access to fresh food and interesting cooking techniques to implement into drinks, without having to justify purchasing more equipment. The options for creativity are vastly expanded, which makes things much more fun and reduces your limitations.”
It’s a vision mirrored by Richard Woods, head of spirits and cocktail development at Sushisamba, London, though he notes the downside to working so closely to a kitchen environment is the themes, menus and ingredients are often dictated. However, he does highly praise the benefits of having such a service there to “open your eyes to the level of professionalism, repertoire of ingredients, appliances and techniques that can be adapted, learned and used”.
“Regardless of what type of bar you represent, you should always aim to up the level – continuously. I absorb all I can, watch everything, prep with the chefs sometimes and see what can be used in my relevant field,” Woods states. He adds that the cocktails of a restaurant bar are also a reflection of what can be achieved culinary-wise at the venue.
“For me, cocktails are the perfect platform to entice guests and show them what it is that we do,” he adds. “Cocktails get the gastric juices flowing, the mouth salivating – they prepare you for a gastronomic event.”

Go time
If restaurant bars wish to build on the momentum they have gathered, then there is no room for anyone to rest on their laurels. From forward thinking, innovative drinks and accommodating staff, to balancing the space between bar and restaurant, it is imperative that every aspect of the establishment be executed with meticulous precision. As Woods underlines, the future success of restaurant bars is a “two-sided event”.
“I think the bar sees the need for the kitchen – it has done for a while. But the kitchen needs to see the advantage of having a bar, especially if that bar has just one bartender who wants to learn and push further. The chef needs to nurture that talent as if they were one of the chefs.”
Plus, with the ongoing influx of wider spirit options, higher quality ingredients, advanced technology and better bartenders, the rise of restaurant bars looks destined to continue its ascent.