The Tequila Masters 2016 results

The first Gold medals of the day were awarded to Olmeca Altos Plata Tequila for its “smooth vanilla” flavours, and Herradura Tequila Blanco; a “sweet, floral” expression with “peppery, grassy” undertones. The round also unearthed two Silver-worthy expressions, El Mayor Tequila Blanco, and Circulo Tequila Silver.

Bridge-Collins surmised: “It’s the nature of the agave plant; it comes from the earth. The growing, the plant, the harvest… When you drink it you still need to have the spirit there. You need the romance of the agave. You have to fall in love with what you’re drinking.”

To round off the Blanco category, judges tasted a small flight of Ultra Premium expressions, awarding a Silver medal to organic Tequila brand 17.02.09, and Gold to Herradura Directo De Alambique. Of the latter, Marino said: “The finish is very light, smooth and sweet, but still long enough to tell it’s very good.”

Of the flight, Marino said: “Every Tequila on the market should be more or less premium or super-premium; the quality should be there. You get to the point where 90% of cost is on marketing the brand and not the product itself. So it’s good these Tequilas stand out and there’s something different about them. They’re worth the higher price.”

Departing clear spirits in search of something woodier, judges were presented with a flight of Premium Reposado, which delivered a mixed bag in terms of quality.

Fjeldsrud explained the difference in character: “The distilleries making Tequila don’t really understand wood, and there are only a few playing about with different types. Most of them would just buy some barrels, stick some Tequila in there and hope it comes out nice, and the smaller distilleries don’t have the funds for a wood programme.”

Jon Anders Fjeldsrud analyses a reposado flight

Wood woes aside, Tequila Exotico Reposado attracted a Gold medal for its “smooth sweetness” and “soft agave” palate, and El Jimador Tequila Reposado attracted Silver. Summing up a turbulent flight, Sherry said: “There was good variety among the premium reposados, although some of them appeared over-aged. It’s not inherently a problem if the style is communicated well on the packaging, but some of the expressions had añejo qualities which I wouldn’t always expect. Overall, it’s interesting to see that brands are trying something different, even if it doesn’t quite hit the mark in every instance.”

The Super Premium round that followed once again stirred opinions on value. “We should be focusing on good quality products, rather than calling the same style of product different names,” said Fjeldsrud. “There are brands that won’t put premium on the bottle, but will keep making great Tequila unless they get bought up. Then you have brands run by businessmen who buy in the juice, put it in an expensive bottle, and charge £50 for it. Tequila might have super premium on the label, but that doesn’t have anything to do with quality.”

A disordered flight, nevertheless some gems were uncovered – particularly Gold medal winner Olmeca Altos Reposado Tequila, a “peppery, spicy, citrusy” offering, along with three Silver medalists.