Top 5 bars in… Budapest

Budapest’s bars are bringing new life to an old national spirit, as pálinka is given a shake up across Hungary’s capital, BarChick discovers.

If you’re visiting Budapest this summer, these bars are a must

Budapest is a city steeped in history and tradition, from its hodgepodge of architectural styles to its centuries-old chess tournaments held in the famous Széchenyi Baths. And as a country proud of its heritage and its produce, Hungary’s national spirit pálinka has been drunk with relish since there’s been fruit on the trees. However, in recent years, this age-old fruit brandy has been enjoying something of a revival, no little thanks to the support of Budapest’s bars and the innovative barkeeps behind them.

Pálinka wasn’t the drink of choice in the increasingly-cosmopolitan capital previously. While traditionally prominent in Hungarian culture, during the days of communism pálinka’s image was badly damaged; all of the best fruit was turned into jam while the poor or dried fruit was used in the distillation of pálinka, cheapening the product until it was closer to oily rocket fuel than a pleasing digestif. “Ten years ago people were sipping whisky in restaurants; they wouldn’t have dreamed of drinking pálinka,” recalls Sandor Zwack, chairman of Hungarian alcohol company Zwack, which as well as herbal liqueur Unicum makes some of Hungary’s leading pálinkas.

Ahead of joining the EU in 2004, many distillers in and around the city modernised their stills and improved standards to align with strict EU laws. These laws stipulated that the spirit be made explicitly with fresh Hungarian fruit, which meant an entire stable of products were rebranded as szeszes ital (spirit drinks), many of which were cheap mixtures of flavourings, water, and rectified spirit. Equally, it became prohibited for people outside of Hungary to make it, emphasising its place as a national treasure. Soon distillers started producing something fruity and aromatic – sophisticated enough for bartenders in Budapest to start paying attention.

“You couldn’t open a bar in Budapest now without stocking pálinka,” said Bence Csokay, owner of Mazel Tov, an arty romkocsma (ruin pub), which opened last September. “It’s ingrained in the city’s culture.” Unlike other EU states, when Hungary joined the EU imports didn’t soar. This is a country loyal to its national produce. Local bottles of pálinka now occupy at least 15% of the back bars in Budapest. For example, Harmatrázó Pálinkaház – produced in Budapest and launched in 2009 on the back of other pálinkas’ success – has enjoyed considerable growth within the market, selling over 30,000 bottles a year to shops and bars.

At a time when local and craft are key buzzwords the world over, Budapest is no different. Take Doblo wine bar, which only stocks wine produced within a 200km radius of Budapest, and applies the same philosophy to its choice of pálinka, which hails from Békéscsaba. Along with wine tastings, they offer pálinka flights, and keep two giant, 10-litre vessels of the spirit on the bar. For Budapest’s four million tourists visiting the city every year, a thoughtful selection of the local speciality is certainly attractive.

However, it’s here in Budapest that the top bartenders are taking the spirit beyond its usual remit. “It can be a wonderful cocktail ingredient when used intelligently and with respect for the spirit’s subtle flavours and aromas,” says Dez O’Connell, head of bar operations at members’ only Brody Studios. “It tends to work better in short, straight up drinks where the spirit can still express itself.” For example, he has created the Flipping Plum, which sees a punchy plum pálinka shaken with Brody plum jam, pear nectar, lemon and sugared egg white.

While for many pálinka will remain a traditional spirit, these bars are shaking new life into it, that could well reach beyond the city’s ancient walls.

Flick through the next few pages to discover the best bars in Budapest.

For more global bar recommendations, visit BarChick.

Brody Studios

Vörösmarty utca 38, 1064; brodystudios.com

The Brody empire is as good as it gets for eating, drinking, sleeping and playing in Budapest. It’s technically a members’ bar, but as soon as you set foot inside you’ll be ready to sign up. There’s a private cinema, an amazing smoking area, a couple of bars and a rotating line up of pop-ups, events and exhibitions.

Doblo Wine Bar

Dob utca 20, 1072; budapestwine.com

A perfectly formed wine bar in the heart of the Jewish district, it’s seating only so booking is essential when it comes to the busy evenings. They only stock Hungarian wines, so it’s the ultimate place to get to know the local grape, and the bartenders really know their stuff.

Kiosk

Március 15. tér 4, 1056; kiosk-budapest.hu

With amazing views of the Buda Castle, Elisabeth Bridge and Gellert Hill, this is a brilliant place to settle in for the afternoon, especially when you need to rest your weary legs after all the sightseeing. It’s big enough for all of your friends thanks to its crumbling warehouse vibes and the lengthy menu well stocked with local produce will keep everyone satisfied.

Szimpler Kert

Kazinczy u. 14, 1075; www.szimpla.hu

Brace yourself, this place is far from normal, but that’s why we love it. This huge “ruin pub” is one of the most famous in town and it’s easy to see why. There’s an enchanted garden, cars are used as tables and gnomes swing from the ceiling… it’s definitely the sort of place to tick off your wish list.

Mazel Tov

Akácfa utca 47, 1074; mazeltovbudapest.tumblr.com

A hot hangout in the Jewish Quarter, this “ruin bar” is incredibly pretty with its white gravel floor, exposed brickwork and tiled bar. The bar shakes up everything from Negronis and Manhattans to some of their own concoctions, but the Jewish food is definitely its selling point.