Top 5 bars in… Prague

Stubbon Czech traditionalism isn’t stopping a wave of bartenders from developing diverse vodka selections on their back bar, as BarChick finds

Amid the castles and cats’ heads (aka cobbled stones) lies a varied and surprising drinking scene. A night out in Prague can swing from tank beers in a smoky hospoda and a sparkling Bohemia Sekt on a breath-taking rooftop, to an Old Fashioned using hand-cut ice in a sophisticated cocktail bar. But despite the variety of experiences available, the city is still behind the times when it comes to the diversity of vodka. Aside from a small number of notable bars, most of Prague’s drinking establishments keep their selection small, mainstream and disappointingly predictable.

Part of this is down to tradition. Prague isn’t far enough east to partake in the Russians’ chilled vodka shots, and the Czechs tend to stick to their own, namely Becherovka or slivovice. Considered tasteless, vodka is usually consumed as a mixer (often with Red Bull) or in cocktails, and consumers seem largely indifferent to brands and are happy to opt for the cheapest (they’ll pay for it with a hangover the next day). But a few standard-bearers are flying the flag for the spirit and pioneering a turn of the tide.

Prague’s newest high-end establishment sits below ground level with a view of the well-heeled strutting down Platnéřská Street. The bar at George Prime Steak is small, sleek and relatively modern. They’ve broken the mould with their focus on American whiskeys and Californian wines, to complement the USDA Black Angus being served in slabs in the adjoining restaurant. Compared with the 20-strong whiskey collection, the vodka selection is small, but sweet. The list is a cross-section of old-timers and cool new kids – think Russian Standard, Ketel One, Beluga Gold Line and England’s Chase, as well as a commendable effort at keeping it local with Double Cross, made from winter wheat sourced in Slovakia’s Tatra Mountains.

A venue with a more impressive vodka selection is Barego, on the ground level of the Mandarin Oriental. “Our guests are mainly interested in big, famous brands, but we are also offering small and interesting vodkas,” the hotel’s F&B director, Jiri Stift, explains. For example, they stock Chase’s Marmalade Vodka and wormwood Vodka Babička. Considering it’s locally produced (albeit not locally owned), it’s surprising Babička is not found in many bars in the capital, especially since the naturally-produced vodka won a Master medal in The Vodka Masters awards in 2012.

Barego is largely filled with Martini-drinking types, well-heeled travellers and discerning expats, who get excited about artisan and premium brands. But what about the local drinkers? Back in the Old Town, we spoke to Martin Oravec in his boutique spirit-lined showroom on Senovážné Náměstí. Oravec owns Premium Solutions, a Prague-based importer of fine, boutique and lesser-known spirits. He jumped at the chance of taking on the big guns and introducing a premium vodka to the Czech market. Less than two years in, his new vodka is doing well; it helps that it is Crystal Head, one of the finest on the market. It comes in at double the price of any entry-level vodka, but Crystal Head has been a success where the staff are well trained and can recommend personally. Once punters have heard the Canadian vodka’s story, Oravec says they’re intrigued enough to give it a try, and then the quality does all the work.

Prague is yet to fully embrace the independent, artisan vodka trend. After the methanol poisoning scare of 2012, the government put measures in place to protect drinkers. While these are important, they are also difficult and expensive for anyone but the big brands to overcome. But the small successes on the ground here of labels such as Chase, Babička and Zufanek, a local absinthe and slivovice distiller, offer glimmers of hope that this situation may be set to change.

Barego, Mandarin Hotel

Nebovidská 459/1, www.mandarinoriental.com/prague/fine-dining/barego/

Across the bridge in New Town, The Mandarin enjoys a quieter, less touristy street than many of the other five-star hotels. Barego is its slick bar, where stylish guests and discerning locals sip Martinis on red leather stools. The cocktail menu is inspired: classic Martinis alongside lavender gimlets with homemade floral syrup. The bright back bar has a strong collection of labels to keep the Rolex-wearers happy, with local treats for the rest of us.

Bugsy’s Bar

Pařížská 1068/10, www.bugsysbar.cz

Descending into this Old Town bar feels like wandering into another era. Bugsy’s was the first of its kind in Prague: Art Deco style, American cocktails and a chic crowd. The selection of single malts numbers more than 120, while rum comes in at around 100, and the leather booths are perfect for sinking into after blowing your budget at the local shops.

Dish Fine Burger Bistro

Římská 1196/29, dish.cz

The burgers here are inspired, but it’s the drinks menu that pleasantly surprises every time. The G&T list pairs lesser-known gins (such as G-Vine, Saffron Gin and Old Tom) with boutique tonics (from Fentimans and Thomas Henry), and its Bloody Smoky (a Bloody Mary made with vodka and whisky) is guaranteed to kill any hangover on the planet.

The Bar at George Prime Steak

Platnéřská 111/19, georgeprimesteak.com

At first glance the bar may look like a small, sunken waiting area, but you’ll find a menu of well-crafted whiskey-based cocktails. If the Pear Sazerac doesn’t float your boat, the Chilli Sorbet definitely will: a slushy mix of Ketel One Citron, fresh chilli, elderflower and orange sorbet. Secret tip: ask for a tour of the top-floor spa area, complete with outdoor Jacuzzi and castle views. This is the spot for a romantic escape.

Anonymous Bar

Michalská 432/12, www.anonymousbar.cz/cs

After you stop scratching your head at the Guy Fawkes mask theme, you’ll be in cocktail heaven. Filip may look too young to drink in a bar, let alone own one, but he’s gathered a group of Prague’s best barmen and a most interesting spirits collection, and their attention to detail is perfect. Sipping a Zufanek absinthe beside a vintage fountain here is next-level stuff. And nobody here is going to tell you how to behave – it’s a party waiting to happen.