EU to consult on absinthe definition

Absinthe could soon be given protected status within the EU if plans to define the category for the first time are approved.

Absinthe producer Pernod Ricard believes the wormwood spirit should be given geographical protection

The launch of low-quality absinthes in recent years has pressured a number of European producers, led by the French Federation of Spirits, to define the category for the first time.

Producers of ‘traditional’ absinthe – created using 19th century recipes and methods – are concerned ‘false’ absinthes – those using non-traditional recipes and methods – are saturating the market and giving consumers an inaccurate opinion of the spirit.

The EU has been holding consultations with stakeholders in Member States to find a common definition, which will outline the production process, level of thujone, alcohol content parameters and ingredients used. In addition, many producers also believe an absinthe should only be named as such if it is produced in Switzerland – its birthplace – or France.

Those spirits not adhering to the definition will not be able to call themselves an absinthe within the EU.

A vote on a common definition is expected to take place in autumn 2012, with publication toward the end of the year.

Consultation

“The FFS have been reviewing absinthe as a category and its definition over the last 12 months within the EU; member distillers across France, both big and small, were invited to meetings in Paris on this subject,” said George Rowley, founder of La Fee which is represented in the discussion by producer La Martiniquaise Group.

“It’s a broad debate but the aim is to present a quality product that can be sold around the world within parameters that’s for the growth of the marketplace.”

Guillaume Petavy Meynier, international brand development manager for exports at Pernod Ricard, said defining the category is crucial to the development of absinthe as a quality product.

“Cognac and Champagne have an AOC and we think its important for us to have something similar for absinthe, because right now any brand can say they are absinthe and put it on the label, but it is not true absinthe, often more or less infused vodka,” he said.

“There is a lot of absinthe on the market today that has not been made using the right processes. It’s important to have regulations for the consumer because this is a prestigious product and we need to stop people from selling absinthe that is not produced in the right way.

“A lot of brands will probably not be able to be called absinthe anymore if they are not done the correct way.”

Other producers involved in the discussions include Pontarlier and Francois Guy.

For more on the absinthe category, see the July edition of The Spirits Business.