Inside London’s hottest new Martini bar, Brutes
The Martini is the name of the game at the soon-to-open Brutes of Mayfair, but its co-founders are putting experience and hospitality before technical wizardry.
The bar, which will open on 10 June, is the brainchild of Guy Mazuch and James Stevenson, both of whom are drinks alumni of JKS Restaurants – the group behind Michelin-starred London venues including Gymkhana, Sabor, and Kitchen Table.
Working with JKS Restaurants has been like a “crash course”, explains Mazuch. “Usually you work on one style in one venue, then move on. With JKS, you’re exposed to many concepts.”
That means working simultaneously with a huge array of chefs – some of whom are “the best in the world”, says Stevenson – on all types of cuisines, from European to Sri Lankan and Persian. “You’re learning how they source and work with suppliers,” he adds. “Having that kind of knowledge of different ingredients and processes has been massive.”
JKS’ influence on Brutes goes beyond its culinary expertise, with the duo hoping to replicate the group’s sense of hospitality. “JKS creates venues that are brand- and experience-driven, seeing the whole picture. It’s hospitality and experience at the forefront,” says Stevenson. “Bars tend to focus more on the drink than the overall experience.”
Having the bartender at the centre of the experience is key. “Like the captain of the room,” he says. This is something the duo think has been missing from the world of cocktails in recent years, which is why Brutes will avoid prebatching. The current state of mixology is “very lab-focused, precise, replicable”, according to Mazuch. “Batching helps with speed, efficiency and consistency. There are great elements to that, and we will continue to do that for projects where that makes sense.”
At Brutes, though, guest interaction is more important than being fast or consistent every time. “We want things that feel immediate – using fresh ingredients, squeezed or zested in front of a guest,” he continues. “If we did all that back of house, we’d lose that immediacy.”
Stevenson adds: “The great thing about bartending is when you recommend something. The fun is exploring with the guest and making something unique to them.
“Bartending creates moments and experiences for guests à la minute, which is more difficult with food. You can change a cocktail menu on the day, based on ingredients, weather, or guest preference, and still serve a drink in five minutes.
“Without batching too much and focusing on immediacy, it creates something more special.”
“Drinks with character are better than drinks with consistency,” concludes Mazuch.
The Martini shop
That ethos and sense of experience culminate in the bar’s signature serve: the Martini. “Given where we’re situated, the Martini is an icon of Mayfair,” says Mazuch. “We were always going to have a big focus on Martinis. It’s such a good canvas to put other flavours and experiences around.”
Brutes achieves that through its Martini card, which allows guests to create their version to their own specification through a checkbox system. Mazuch and Stevenson will also use the cocktail as a canvas for collaborating with chefs and using “esoteric” ingredients from favoured suppliers. Part of that will be achieved through unique garnishes, which Mazuch admits have been taking off elsewhere. “That’s started to happen with blue cheese olives and people making their own pickles – Waltz bar’s pickles are fantastic.”
There’s no denying that Brutes is the latest in a long line of Martini-focused venues in the capital, following recent launches like Hawksmoor’s Martini Bar and Twenty8 Nomad. But has London reached peak Martini?
“It’s hard to say,” says Stevenson. “If I ask some of my friends, they don’t really know what a Martini is. But there is a certain amount of buzz.” It’s worth noting that Mazuch and Stevenson came up with the idea for Brutes about four years ago, before the Martini was everywhere.
“The Martini kept growing, and we had to decide if we should bow out because it’s become so popular,” adds Mazuch. “We had to make the decision that felt right for the place and the street. We still feel like it’s a cocktail that’s endured and will always endure, not a flash in the pan.”
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