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Feature
The Tequila & Mezcal Masters results 2023
Vast potential within the mezcal category alongside increasing diversity in Tequila make the agave sector an exciting one to watch, as found by our judges.
At the start of the year, the Tequila category made headlines for all the right reasons. The agave-based spirit overtook American whiskey to become the second most valuable spirit in the US. Furthermore, IWSR Drinks Market Analysis expects Tequila to surpass vodka to take the number-one position by the end of 2023 – driven by demand for premium-plus products.
Consumers are evidently gravitating towards Tequila – so The Global Spirits Masters Competitions gathered a group of expert tasters together in London restaurant and bar Bantof to put the category through its paces, alongside its cousin spirit, mezcal.
Forming the first panel were: David T Smith, spirits consultant, writer and co-founder of the Craft Distilling Expo; Claire Filer, founder of Ginesthesia; Eduardo Gomez, founder of Tequila Fest; and Melita Kiely, editor of The Spirits Business, and chair of The Global Spirits Masters Competitions, who led the group.
Panel two was headed by Matt Chambers, spirits writer, and co-founder of the Whisky for Everyone blog. He was joined by Evan Prousaefs, bar manager at London’s Sexy Fish, and Marie Cheong Thong, wine and spirits judge, and Wine and Spirit Education Trust educator.
Balancing act
In the opening Mixto Tequila – Blanco flight, a Gold medal was handed to Sierra Tequila Blanco, described as a “well-balanced mixto Tequila”. Olmeca Blanco also collected a Gold award, liked for its “warm heat on the finish”. Two Silvers were also given in this round.
The following heat, 100% Agave Tequila – Premium Blanco, assessed Tequilas priced up to £25 (US$31). A Gold medal was also awarded to “full-bodied” Don Londres. “A very strong showing for this entry-level category,” said Chambers.
The price bracket then jumped to super-premium blanco Tequilas priced between £26 and £40. Three standout bottlings bagged Master medals. Gomez described Master-winning Olmeca Altos Plata as “well-balanced with some good agave and citrus notes; very smooth”. El Tequileño Platinum also secured a Master medal for “classic Tequila aromas” with some “caramel sweetness and floral notes” on the palate. “Complex and worth the price,” said Kiely.
The aroma of Master-winning Cazcabel Blanco Tequila was described by Cheong Thong as “delicate and fruity”, leading to a “clean and fresh” palate. Prousaefs enjoyed the “bright agave notes” of this Tequila.
“Characterful” Lokita Tequila Blanco and “bright, citrusy” Sierra Antiguo Plata picked up Gold medals, while El Tequileño Blanco was awarded Silver. Smith was impressed: “I liked the accessibility of these Tequilas, and that there were a range of characters coming through in different ways.”
Up next came a flight of 100% Agave Tequila – Ultra-Premium Blanco, containing Tequilas costing £41 and above. Avión Silver secured a Master medal for its “elegant, earthy and grassy nose”. Additional tasting notes included “plenty of agave, green capsicum, white chocolate and peppery spices”.
Bandero Blanco was given a Gold medal for being “bold and expressive” on the palate, with “cocoa, agave syrup and a hint of green chilli” on the finish. Gold-winning Herradura Plata was enjoyed for its “deliciously earthy nose” and “sweet, rounded palate”. The round finished with a Silver for Suave Premium Tequila Lunar.
Prousaefs said about the flight: “Some great representatives in this category. It was great overall with plenty of complexity, but the price could be a turn off.”
With blanco Tequilas done and dusted, the competition turned its focus towards reposado bottlings. Sierra Tequila Reposado received a Gold award in the Mixto Tequila – Reposado round, and was described as “warming, sweet, with earthy smoke in the background”. Olmeca Reposado also received a Gold medal for delivering some “nuttiness” on the palate.
In the 100% Agave Tequila – Premium Reposado round (comprising Tequilas priced up to £30), El Tequileño Reposado took a Master for its flavours of “agave, butterscotch, vanilla and cinnamon – very smooth”.
Another Master medal made itself known in the following flight, 100% Agave Tequila – Super-Premium Reposado (£31-£45). The top medal went to El Tequileño Reposado Gran Reserva, impressing with its “spicy sweetness and a wonderful mouthfeel – spicy, roasted agave with hints of orange peel”.
Three Gold awards were also given in this heat: Lokita Tequila Reposado, with hints of “honey syrup, and some capsicum”; “sippable, well-balanced” Olmeca Altos Reposado; and “complex, fresh and grassy” Avión Reposado.
“These were much more complex and better in quality,” enthused Filer.
The Gold-standard continued into the ultra-premium portion of the reposado subcategory, with four Gold medals awarded in the flight. The winning products were: “full-bodied” Suave Premium Tequila Reposado; “appealing, citrusy, peppery” El Tequileño Reposado Rare; “nicely balanced with light citrus” Don Julio Primavera; and “oaky, rich” Herradura Reposado.
Gomez spoke particularly favourably about Suave Premium Tequila Reposado: “From this flight, it was the best, in my opinion, in terms of the agave notes, but also the ageing. It’s great because you get lots of caramel and oaky notes without being super charred; nice woodiness comes through, butterscotch – really great.”
Yet more Gold-worthy Tequilas were enjoyed in the 100% Agave Tequila – Super-Premium Añejo heat. Winners included Teremana Añejo, whose tasting notes included “plenty of vanilla and toffee on the nose”, leading to “peppery spice and a hint of crème brûlée on the palate”.
Chambers noted: “An incredibly solid flight that shows in the marks. Not much variety, but all very enjoyable products, especially for the price.”
Earthy spice
In the ultra-premium price bracket, one añejo Tequila scored the top Master medal: Don Julio Ultima. Chambers found this to be “very elegant” on the nose, with “hints of floral and earthy spice”. The palate brought a “hint of citrus blossom and underlying warm spices”.
Gold-winning Avión Reserva 44 delivered a “nice mouthfeel with a hint of citrus and caramel-like sweetness”. “This showed a serious jump up in quality from the previous flight,” enthused Chambers. “Both were exquisite, and show what a sympathetic approach to oak management can do.”
BBC Spirits took home two respectable Silver medals in the Flavoured Tequila flight, with one awarded to “cinnamon-forward” Diego & Maria Spiced, and the second to “refreshing, green” Diego & Maria Cucumber.
In the Tequila Liqueur flight, two further Silvers were enjoyed: “nicely balanced” El Sueño Pink Grapefruit Liqueur, and “sweet and thick” Bandero Café.
That concluded the Tequila part of the tasting, so the judges turned their attention to a series of mezcal flights. The mezcal heats were broken down into production styles and agave varieties. The first flight was 100% Agave Mezcal – Joven– Artisanal – Tobala-Puebla. A Master winner was celebrated in this heat – Fósforo Tobala. Gomez said: “Delicious vegetal notes, with good levels of smokiness coming through.”
Moving to the 100% Agave Mezcal – Joven – Artisinal – Salmiana heat, and a Gold medal was given to Desolas Mezcal Blanco, which presented notes of “dark sugar, apple and pear”. Lokita Mezcal Tepeztate made a lasting impression on the judges in the 100% Agave Mezcal – Joven – Artisanal – Tepeztate heat, securing a Master medal. Chambers was blown away: “Wow, what a nose – so expressive. Wonderful mouthfeel with hints of milk chocolate, burnt agave, and green vegetal notes.”
In the 100% Agave Mezcal – Joven – Artisanal heat, Noble Coyote’s Angustifolia-Lyobaá won a Master medal for its “fresh, clean” aroma, and “delicious, spicy” palate.
Another Master result came in the next flight: 100% Agave Mezcal – Joven – Artisanal – Espadín. Dohba secured the top award for its “lovely tropical nose, gentle floral smoke and a dry finish”.
Next came an entry into the 100% Agave Mezcal – Joven – Artisanal – Espadín-Jabalí, by Noble Coyote, which impressed the judges with its Gold-worthy qualities. Tasting notes included an “elegant and earthy nose” with hints of “toffee and warming spices” on the palate. Meanwhile, BBC Spirits increased its Master haul in the following flight of mezcals made with Tobala agave. Lokita Mezcal Ensamble Espadín 8 Ans and 12 Ans was enjoyed for its “fresh, fruity, citrus” nose and “floral notes balanced against punchy smoke, rubber and peppery texture” on the palate.
Two Gold medals were also awarded to “vibrant, delicious” Lokita Mezcal Tobala and “funky, spicy, earthy” Fósforo Tobala Penca.
The final flight of the tasting looked at mezcal made with Madrecuishe agave, and found the final Gold winner of the day: Lokita Mezcal Madrecuishe. Prousaefs said: “The palate is sweet, flavourful with a long aftertaste.”
Once the initial tasting had been concluded, the judges revisited the Master winners from the day. The votes were counted and the Taste Master title was bestowed upon Lokita Mezcal Tepeztate.
The judges were particularly excited by mezcal’s potential and were delighted to see such diversity and high-quality products in the Tequila sector.
If agave-based spirits continue on this trajectory, it will come as little surprise to see the sector’s popularity continue to grow.
Mixto Tequila – Blanco
| Company | Product | Medal |
| Borco | Sierra Tequila Blanco | Gold |
| House of Tequila Pernod Ricard Mexico | Olmeca Blanco | Gold |
| Alias Smith | Buen Vato | Silver |
| BBC Spirits | Diego & Maria Tequila Silver | Silver |
100% Agave Tequila – Premium Blanco
| Company | Product | Medal |
| Don Londres | Don Londres | Gold |
100% Agave Tequila – Super-Premium Blanco
| Company | Product | Medal |
| House of Tequila Pernod Ricard Mexico | Olmeca Altos Plata | Master |
| El Tequileño | El Tequileño Platinum | Master |
| Cazcabel Tequila | Cazcabel Blanco Tequila | Master |
| Acre Largo | Acre Largo | Gold |
| BBC Spirits | Lokita Tequila Blanco | Gold |
| Borco | Sierra Antiguo Plata | Gold |
| El Tequileño | El Tequileño Blanco | Silver |
100% Agave Tequila – Ultra-Premium Blanco
| Company | Product | Medal |
| House of Tequila Pernod Ricard Mexico | Avión Silver | Master |
| Rokit Drinks | Bandero Blanco | Gold |
| Brown-Forman | Herradura Plata | Gold |
| Suave Spirits | Suave Premium Tequila Lunar | Silver |
Mixto Tequila – Reposado
| Company | Product | Medal |
| Borco | Sierra Tequila Reposado | Gold |
| House of Tequila Pernod Ricard Mexico | Olmeca Reposado | Gold |
100% Agave Tequila – Premium Reposado
| Company | Product | Medal |
| El Tequileño | El Tequileño Reposado | Master |
100% Agave Tequila – Super-Premium Reposado
| Company | Product | Medal |
| El Tequileño | El Tequileño Reposado Gran Reserva | Master |
| BBC Spirits | Lokita Tequila Reposado | Gold |
| House of Tequila Pernod Ricard Mexico | Olmeca Altos Reposado | Gold |
| House of Tequila Pernod Ricard Mexico | Avión Reposado | Gold |
100% Agave Tequila – Ultra-Premium Reposado
| Company | Product | Medal |
| Suave Spirits | Suave Premium Tequila Reposado | Gold |
| El Tequileño | El Tequileño Reposado Rare | Gold |
| Diageo | Don Julio Primavera | Gold |
| Brown-Forman | Herradura Reposado | Gold |
100% Agave Tequila – Super-Premium Añejo
| Company | Product | Medal |
| BBC Spirits | Lokita Tequila Añejo | Gold |
| Teremana | Teremana Añejo | Gold |
| El Tequileño | El Tequileño Añejo Gran Reserva | Gold |
| Borco | Sierra Antiguo Añejo | Gold |
| House of Tequila Pernod Ricard Mexico | Olmeca Altos Añejo | Gold |
100% Agave Tequila – Ultra-Premium Añejo
| Company | Product | Medal |
| Brown-Forman | Herradura Añejo | Gold |
100% Agave Tequila – Ultra-Premium Extra Añejo
| Company | Product | Medal |
| Diageo | Don Julio Ultima | Master |
| House of Tequila Pernod Ricard Mexico | Avión Reserva 44 | Gold |
Flavoured Tequila
| Company | Product | Medal |
| BBC Spirits | Diego & Maria Spiced | Silver |
| BBC Spirits | Diego & Maria Cucumber | Silver |
Tequila Liqueur
| Company | Product | Medal |
| Sueño Drinks | El Sueño Pink Grapefruit Liqueur | Silver |
| Rokit Drinks | Bandero Café | Silver |
100% Agave Mezcal – Blanco – Artisanal – Tobala‐Puebla
| Company | Product | Medal |
| Fósforo | Fósforo Tobala | Master |
100% Agave Mezcal – Blanco – Artisanal – Salmiana
| Company | Product | Medal |
| Desolas Mezcal | Desolas Mezcal Blanco | Gold |
100% Agave Mezcal – Joven – Artisanal – Tepeztate
| Company | Product | Medal |
| BBC Spirits | Lokita Mezcal Tepeztate | Master & Taste Master |
100% Agave Mezcal – Joven – Artisanal
| Company | Product | Medal |
| Yowipe | Noble Coyote – Angustifolia-Lyobaá | Master |
100% Agave Mezcal – Joven – Artisanal – Espadín
| Company | Product | Medal |
| Global Tropical Fruits & International Foods BBC Spirits | Dohba | Master |
| BBC Spirits | Lokita Mezcal Espadín | Gold |
100% Agave Mezcal – Joven – Artisanal – Espadín‐Jabali
| Company | Product | Medal |
| Yowipe | Noble Coyote – Espadín-Jabali | Gold |
100% Agave Mezcal – Joven – Artisanal – Tobala
| Company | Product | Medal |
| BBC Spirits | Lokita Mezcal Ensamble Espadin 8 Ans and Tobola 12 Ans | Master |
| BBC Spirits | Lokita Mezcal Tobola | Gold |
| Fósforo | Fósforo Tobala Penca | Gold |
100% Agave Mezcal – Joven – Artisanal – Madrecuishe
| Company | Product | Medal |
| BBC Spirits | Lokita Mezcal Madrecuishe | Gold |
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