The Irish Whiskey Masters 2022 results

The standard of Irish whiskey coming from the island’s producers is deeply impressive, as is the breadth of styles they are creating. This became clear in this year’s edition of our annual blind-tasting contest.

There are some big investments occurring in the Irish whiskey category. The sector has been growing at a rate of knots in recent years, and producers are moving to ensure they have the future stocks to satiate demand.

Two of the most substantial developments came to light in June this year. Sliabh Liag Distillers launched a crowdfunding campaign to raise €2 million (US$2.14m) to increase its production capacity from 440,000 litres per year to 600,000 litres. Later that same month, Buffalo Trace owner Sazerac acquired Lough Gill distillery in County Sligo, Ireland. The site will become the new home for Sazerac’s Irish whiskey brands Paddy, and Michael Collins. The 100-acre location will be transformed into a ‘world-class’ whiskey facility and visitor attraction, which will be able to welcome up to 150,000 guests annually.

As investment in the category increases, so does innovation. The Irish Whiskey Masters 2022 looked to see what was driving the spirit’s popularity, and where the best bargains could be found. The 2022 iteration of the blind tasting took place at the Ibis Styles hotel in London Bridge.

The first panel was led by Melita Kiely, editor of The Spirits Business, and chair of The Global Spirits Masters Competitions. She was joined by: Michael Fichtner, whisky sommelier at The Coburg Bar at The Connaught; Herchelle Perez Terrado, director of Drinks Partnership; and Chris Tanner, general manager of Silverleaf bar in London.

Matt Chambers, spirits writer and co-founder of the Whisky for Everyone blog chaired the second panel. The team comprised: Derek Millar, retired whisky sales advisor; Angelo Sparvoli, head bartender at St James Bar at the Sofitel St James in London; and Marie Cheong Thong, wine and spirits judge, and Wine and Spirit Education Trust educator.

The third panel, chaired by Billy Abbott, ambassador at The Whisky Exchange, included: Caroline Roddis, editor of The Whisky Exchange; and drinks consultant Stephen Kennard, of SMJK Consulting.

The fourth group consisted of chair Nicola Carruthers, deputy editor of The Spirits Business; Nicola Thomson, director of Practical Matters; Toshio Ueno, vice-president and executive instructor at Sake School of America; and Sara Jane Eichler, founder of the Negroni Club UK.

Karen Taylor, co-founder of the Whisky for Everyone blog, was at the helm of panel five. Taylor was joined by Elise Craft, co-host of The Whisky Squad; and Ivan Orsini, head bartender at The Aubrey in London’s Mandarin Oriental Hotel.

A solid set of Golds got the competition off to a strong start, all presented in the Blended – Standard flight, which sampled whiskeys priced up to £30 (US$37).

Gold by name and Gold by nature, Powers Gold Label received one of the three Gold medals for its “bold oakiness on the finish and drying but sweet aftertaste”.

Jameson Irish whiskey was also found to be Gold-worthy, with its notes of “apples and pear drops”.

The Boston Bakers also received a Gold medal for “loads of red apples” on the palate and “a delicious woody spice finish”.

Eight Silver medals completed the opening round, with winners including Tullamore Dew Caribbean Rum Cask Finish, Ha’Penny Original, and Wise Owl Whiskey.

Craft noted: “There was a broad spectrum with typical Irish profiles. A good balance between quality and price.”

In the Blended – Premium price range, whiskeys costing between £31 and £45 were sampled. Seven more Gold winners were crowned in this heat.

Gold-winning Jameson Caskmates IPA Edition and Jameson Black Barrel were saluted, with the latter delivering “sweet honey, juicy fruitiness with a good pinch of warming spice”.

Belfast Distillery Company’s McConnell’s Irish Whisky 5 Years Old also took home a Gold medal after impressing with “super sharp, fresh green apples” on the nose and “white chocolate and pepper spices” on the palate. Further Golds went to The Irishman Harvest, Ha’Penny Four Cask, Jameson Crested, and Teeling Small Batch. Four Silvers were also awarded.

“Some very nice whiskeys here and at a good price point,” noted Cheong Thong. “An enjoyable flight.”

Millar was also impressed. He said: “A lovely variation between some lighter styles and heavier/fruitier styles. Good to see some Irish whiskey character shining through.”

Soft spice on the palate

The super-premium blended whiskeys comprised bottlings priced between £46 and £60. Here, two Golds were discovered: Tullamore Dew 12 Years Old Special Reserve, and McConnell’s Irish Whisky Sherry Cask Finish. The latter, produced by the Belfast Distillery Company, was described as “caramel-forward” on the nose with “soft spice building” on the palate, along with “butterscotch pudding”.

Abbott noted about the Tullamore expression: “The nose is very fruity, with a backup of polished-oak spiciness.”

Teeling Small Batch Collaboration – Stiggins’ Fancy Pineapple picked up a Silver award.

In the Blended – Ultra Premium segment, it was Gold-standard across the board. Five Gold medals were presented in this flight: Midleton Very Rare 2022, with “apple, yellow peach” notes; “malty, fruit-focused” Jameson 18 Years Old; “delicious” Jameson Bow Street 18 Years Old with “pecan pie, fudge” flavours; Writers’ Tears Mizunara Japanese Cask Finish, with “subtle vanilla and oak”; and The Irishman Caribbean Cask Finish, full of “lovely fruitiness”.

Ueno said: “I liked the finishes, they were crisp, and the malty character was still retained, which was nice.”

Once the blends had been tasted, the judges moved to single malts, starting with a flight of standard-priced whiskeys (up to £40). The first two Master winners were unearthed here: Spanish Earl Irish Whiskey and Dingle Single Malt Batch 6.

Spanish Earl Irish Whiskey intrigued the judges with its “wet washing on the nose”, leading to flavours of “toffee, butterscotch and orchard fruit” on the palate.

Dingle Single Malt Batch 6 offered a “sweet grain palate, with building apple fruitiness”. Among the five Gold medallists in this round were “soft and toffee-forward” Dublin City Whiskey – 100% Irish Single Malt, and West Cork Calvados Cask Single Malt, with “lots of nuttiness, toffee and grainy notes”.

A Silver medal completed the flight.

“From this flight, there are clearly some bargains out there – an interesting category,” noted Kennard.

Roddis was impressed about what consumers could get for their money. “The fact that these are all sub-£40 shows that there’s an accessible level of excellence,” she added.

In the Single Malt – Premium heat, where whiskeys were priced between £41 and £60, a Master winner was discovered in Pearse Whiskey 12 Years Founder’s Choice.

Taylor enthused: “This was delicious. An excellent example of balance and complexity. Classic rich, woody perfume and soft spices that are well balanced. Delivers on all fronts. Excellent value.” Four Golds and one Silver medal were also awarded in this round. Teeling Blackpitts Peated Single Malt was one of the four Gold winners, with “well-balanced gentle peat – a great entry point for new peaty whisky drinkers and also satisfying enough for aficionados”.

In the super-premium category, whiskeys priced up to £90 were assessed, and three Gold medals were awarded. Gold-winning Method and Madness Single Malt was “moreish – leaves you wanting more”.

The Irishman 12 Years Old was found to be “harmonious with elegant fruit”, while Tullamore Dew 18 Years Old was described as having “lingering sweetness with some spices and toffee”.

The most expensive single malts, priced at £91 and above, were sampled in the ultra-premium segment – which recognised five Golds. Teeling Whiskey Company collected two awards, one for Teeling 30 Years Old and another for Teeling Renaissance Series 5 18 Years Old – Calvados Cask. A trio of Knappogue whiskeys also took home Gold medals. One of the entries, Knappogue Castle 21, offered a “syrupy feel, warm baking spices and yeasty bread on the finish”.

Craft said: “There was nothing in this category not to enjoy. Lots to choose from within that Irish profile. There was diversity in style but true consistency in quality.”

Easy to drink

From there, the tasting progressed to single grain whiskeys by price point. In the standard bracket, ranging up to £30 a bottle, Great Earl Irish Whiskey scooped a Gold medal for being “fresh, vibrant and very easy to drink”.

In the premium heat, which looked at whiskeys sitting between £31 and £45, Teeling Single Grain grabbed a Silver medal for its “classic butterscotch” palate.

The super-premium round was for whiskeys positioned from £46 to £60, with Method and Madness Single Grain securing a Gold medal. The whiskey impressed with its “creamy and soft palate, with lovely delicate peach”.

Single pot still whiskeys always spark some interesting conversations among the judges. Native to Ireland, the whiskey style was enjoyed across the panels and the standard flight (up to £30) rewarded two entries with Gold medals.

Samuel Gelston’s Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey Bourbon bagged a Gold award for “crisp green apple and biscuit cereals”. Stablemate Samuel Gelston’s Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey Pinot Noir also picked up a Gold. Fichtner detected “grapefruit, honey, camomile and apricots” in the whiskey.

In the Single Pot Still – Premium heat, for whiskeys between £41 and £60, Powers Three Swallow Release secured a Gold medal for “oatmeal cookies and chocolate” flavours.

Multi-layered

In the super-premium single pot still contingent (£61-£90), Redbreast 12 Years Old soared to success with a Master medal. Chambers noted the whiskey’s “multi-layered” profile and described it as “delicious”. Tasting notes included “dried fruits, dusty baking spices and a hint of peach/apricot”.

Four Gold medallists were also celebrated, including Green Spot. This had “tonnes of vanilla and confected fruit” on the nose, leading to “poached pear with cracked black pepper” on the palate”.

Two Silver medals rounded off the flight.

At the top end of the price bracket, the ultra-premium single pot still whiskeys were greatly enjoyed by the judges, who awarded two Master medals. The first went to Redbreast 27 Years Old. Tasting notes included a “rich and spicy palate; juicy red berries, freshly risen bread, and enough dryness to be moreish”.

“A complex whiskey with loads of character, beautifully balanced with the ideal level of ageing and cask selection,” noted Taylor.

Midleton Very Rare Barry Crockett Legacy also secured the top accolade. Roddis picked out “coconut, chocolate-chip cookie dough, and cherries”, evolving into “chocolate-covered tropical fruits on the palate, with fizzes of oaky spice”. Eleven Gold medals and one Silver cemented the category’s success. Gold winners included “rich and indulgent” Blue Spot, and “complex, nutty, herbaceous” Redbreast Lustau Edition.

In the Other – Rye & Malt Blend heat, Method and Madness Rye and Malt made the Gold cut. Tanner found “a nice hint of malt on the nose bolstered by underlying spice”, with “notes of rock candy and tropical fruit” on the palate. Molly Malone Small Batch brought enjoyment to the Small Batch flight, and received a Gold medal. The judges enjoyed the “freshness” on the palate and “balanced grain qualities”.

In the Flavoured Spirit Drink sector, for flavoured whiskey-based products, a Master medallist was hailed in the form of Carlow Cuttings Botanical Spirits.

Eichler said: “Soft and grapey with a beautiful bouquet of spring flowers. Complex, leading you in a different direction with each sip. Lovely tropical notes and bursts of citrus; it’s endless yet perfectly balanced.”

Gold and Silver medallists – Tullamore Dew Honey and Jameson Cold Brew, respectively – were also enjoyed.

For the first time in The Irish Whiskey Masters a category for new make spirit was offered. The judges liked what they found in Pearse Lyons Pot Still New Make Dublin 8, awarding the unaged spirit a Gold medal. Tanner found aromas of “tropical fruit and overripe banana” with “hints of jasmine and Demerara sugar” on the palate.

The tasting finished on a high with Black Water Irish Poteen, which was presented with the final Master medal of the day in the closing Poitín round. “Creamy, gorgeous wisps of bonfire smokiness by the ocean, salty and rich; green and fresh,” noted Craft.

The judges then tasted all the Irish whiskey Master medallists. With such a high standard in various categories, the final choice was anything but easy. However, after careful consideration the judges came to the consensus that Redbreast 27 Years Old would be The Irish Whiskey Taste Master 2022.

The excitement about the Irish whiskey category was palpable throughout the tasting, and showed there are some true gems to be found on the Emerald Isle. Further investment in Irish whiskey is inevitable, indicating that there will be much to look forward to in years to come.

Yesterday (1 August), we revealed the winners from this year’s American Whiskey Masters blind tasting.

---

Blended – Standard 

Blended – Premium 

Blended – Super Premium 

Blended – Ultra Premium

Single Malt – Standard 

Single Malt – Premium 

Single Malt – Super Premium 

Single Malt – Ultra‐Premium 

Single Grain – Standard 

Single Grain – Premium 

Single Grain – Super Premium 

Single Pot Still – Standard

Single Pot Still – Premium

Single Pot Still – Super Premium 

Single Pot Still – Ultra Premium 

Other – Rye & Malt Blend

Small Batch

New Make

Flavoured Spirit Drink

Poitin

Related news

Tobermory concludes Hebridean Series

Nature’s masterpiece: Kavalan

Dhavall Gandhi unveils whisky collection