The Rum & Cachaça Masters 2022 results

This year’s competition received a record-breaking number of entries, and the results showed that rum producers are making positive strides to create balanced, flavourful expressions.

Another record was blown to smithereens in our most recent blind‐tasting competition. Last month’s Rum & Cachaça Masters was the biggest iteration of the competition to date, with more than 220 expressions submitted. Rum has been a keen talking point in the industry for many years, as it has made significant strides to premiumise and increase its quality offerings. The 2022 judges were left with a sense of development and greater quality throughout the category, as was demonstrated in this year’s huge medal tally.

As always, entries were judged blind, meaning the judges were free from any brand preconceptions, and each spirit was judged based purely on the liquid inside the bottle. The entries were packed and shipped by Sensible to Abigail’s in Vinegar Yard, London, where our esteemed tasters gathered to assess the state of both categories.

The judges were divided into five panels. The first included rum blogger Jo Killoughery and independent rum consultant Keegan Menezes, and chaired by Melita Kiely, editor of The Spirits Business and chair of The Global Sprits Masters. The second panel was headed by Nicola Carruthers, deputy editor of The Spirits Business, who was joined by Bernadette Pamplin, freelance spirits writer and founder of the Under the Ginfluence blog, and Evan Prousaefs, bar manager and assistant general manager of Los Mochis restaurant in Notting Hill.

On the third panel were Marie Cheong Thong, wine and spirits judge, and Wine and Spirit Education Trust educator, and Derek Millar, retired whisky sales advisor. David T Smith, spirits consultant, writer and founder of the Craft Distilling Expo, chaired the team.

Bryan Rodriguez, wine and spirits buyer at Harvey Nichols, chaired the fourth panel. He was joined by Dimple Athavia, founder of All Things Drinks, and Lawrence Gregory, bar manager at Brother Marcus in Spitalfields, London.

The fifth and final panel was chaired by Billy Abbott, whisky ambassador for The Whisky Exchange. Abbott was joined by Sly Augustin, founder of Trailer Happiness bar in Notting Hill, and Alan Uresti, head of agave spirits at Annabel’s in London.

Top quality

The opening flight looked at white rums priced up to £15 (US$20) – and a top‐quality expression was discovered. Ten To One White Rum secured the top Master medal for its “fruity aromas” and slight “funky” notes. This led to “bold spice” on the palate”. “You get a lot of flavour for your money,” Menezes noted. “This delivered on all cylinders. If you want a good rum for under £15, this is what I would pick.”

A Gold medal went to White Cane, which had “good depth of flavour”, while a Silver award was given to Old Nick White.

Progressing to the premium segment of white rums – those priced between £16 and £20 – and a plethora of Gold‐standard bottlings were enjoyed. Among the Gold medal winners was Dead Man’s Fingers White Rum, which was described as a “good classic style”.

Havana Club 3 Years Old also secured a Gold medal, liked for its “delicate, sweet” palate with a “lovely long mouthfeel, with nice grassy notes”. Equiano Light was also celebrated in this flight, bagging a Gold medal for delivering “lots of ripe banana” on the nose. “Creamy, rich and delicious”, the judges enthused. Four Silver medals completed the flight.

At the top price point for the category, Renegade Rum received a Gold medal for its Dunfermline (Column Still) expression. Three Silver medals were awarded to Diablo Aged White Rum, Old Bacolet (Pot Still) and Dunfermline (Pot Still).

Hints of coconut

The judges’ attention then turned to White Overproof rums, where a Master medal was discovered. Worthy Park Estate secured the top award for Rum‐Bar White Overproof Rum. Carruthers said: “The palate is lovely and long, with some nice hints of coconut.”

Gold‐winning Takamaka Rum Overproof was praised for its “vibrant nose”. Carruthers said this was a “classic overproof rum”. Prousaefs said: “These were very diverse, very different in what they offer.”

With the white rum portion complete, the judges took on a flight of Gold Rum – Premium (priced up to £25). Two Master winners were celebrated in this flight. The first was bestowed upon Pampero Seleccion. This expression had a “classic rum nose, dark and woody”, which delighted the judges.

Plantation Gran Añejo also received a Master medal. Abbott found “toffee with a hint of orange” on the nose, leading to a “well balanced, fruity finish”.

Nine Gold medals boosted the flight, with medal winners including Worthy Park Select, Rum‐Bar Gold Rum and Plantation XO 20th Anniversary. Angostura 1919 also nabbed a Gold medal in this round, enjoyed for its “sweet, fruity” nose. The palate was found to be “nicely rounded, complex and sweet”. Four Silver medals finished the flight.

Moving onto the next price bracket, super premium (rums from £26 to £40), and another Master was uncovered. Merser Rum was awarded the top medal for its “silky texture” and notes of “butterscotch, raisins and baking spices”. Six Gold medals were awarded to the following brands: Guatemala Rum, Mezan XO, Santa Teresa 1796, Ron Añejo Carúpano 12 Exclusive Reserve, Worthy Park Single Estate Reserve, and Ron Añejo Carúpano 18 Limited Reserve.

An interesting group

Killoughery said: “There was a lot of alliance on fruit notes between these. It was an interesting group.” From there, the judges moved onto Gold Rum – Ultra Premium (£41 and above). Ron Añejo Carúpano 21 Private Reserve scooped a Master award in this heat for its “bold character, but done in a good way”. The “finish was really nice and lingering”. Three Golds were picked up by Lost Years Arribada, Diablo Aged Rum, and Matugga Rum Mavuno 2020.

Gold rums were then assessed according to age statements, beginning with those aged up to seven years old. Angostura 7 Years Old was one of three Gold medal winners in this heat, enjoyed for its “lovely nose packed with caramel” and “warm, round, bitter wood notes” on the palate for added balance.

Jamaica Navy Strength won a Gold medal for its “big funky esters” on the nose, while AB Gold Rum lived up to its name after showing notes of “rounded banana, vanilla and toffee”. Five Silver medals concluded this round.

More Gold winners made themselves known in the next segment: Gold Rum Aged 8‐12 Years. Among these was Denizen Merchant’s Reserve Rum, which had “good depth and complexity, with notes of honey barbecue crisps”. Two Silvers were also awarded. Killoughery noted: “These rums were all quite different. I got very different notes; some had little peculiar flavour profiles, a little smoke. It’s an interesting flight with a lot of diversity.”

The first set of dark rums fell within the premium price bracket, costing up to £25. Welsh distillery Penderyn blew the judges away with Siddiqui Brown Rum. Smith was reminded of the coast when sampling this particular expression, and picked out “dry woodsmoke and some salinity” on the nose”. “Nice texture with some apple and pear notes,” he added.

The remainder of the flight proved to be extremely strong, delivering nine Gold medals. Award winners included: “soft, fruity, smoky” Havana Club Cuban Smoky; Bacardí Gran Reserva Limitada with “fruity esters”; and Eminente Reserva, with “slightly brandy‐ like notes, good complexity”. A Silver medal rounded off the segment.

In the following flight, Dark Rum – Super Premium, rums priced between £26 and £40 were put through their paces. Havana Club Selección de Maestros proved its quality credentials in this heat, securing a Master award. Abbott said the palate was “rich and thick, with burnt/cinder toffee and building fruit concentrate”.

La Hechicera Reserva Familiar, with a “hint of roast pineapple”; Denizen Vatted Dark Rum, with “big petrol funk on the palate”; and “aromatic, fruity” Signature Rum by Vok Beverages all collected Gold medals. The flight also produced two Silver medals.

Strongest flights

The ultra‐premium dark rum contingent proved to be one of the strongest flights of the day, delivering an impressive six Master medallists. One such worthy winner was Flood Rum by Vok Beverages. “This had good body, good flavour – honest rum flavour. I didn’t perceive any adulteration. It was just good, honest, decent rum,” Menezes said.

Holyrood Distillery in Scotland walked away with five outstanding Master medals in the flight. The Edinburgh‐based distiller picked up the coveted awards for: Elizabeth Yard South Pacific 2004; Elizabeth Yard Diamond Distillery 2003; Elizabeth Yard Longpond 2000; Elizabeth Yard Diamond Distillery 2011 Red Wine Octave; and Elizabeth Yard Diamond Distillery 2011 Spanish Oak PX Sherry Octave.

Abbott’s panel found notes of “green leaves and caramel” on the nose of Elizabeth Yard South Pacific 2004, leading to a “minty palate with lots of sweetness – dips into chocolate and toffee”.

Four Gold medals joined the growing medal tally, with awards given to Angostura 1787, Elizabeth Yard Diamond Distillery 2011 Ungrogged American Oak Octave, Elizabeth Yard Caroni 1997 and Papa’s Pilar Dark Rum. Two Silver medals brought the round to a close. Pamplin said: “It was quite amazing to see the ABVs at this price point, and to see everything really well made.”

Taking age statements into account, the Dark Rum – Aged up to 7 Years proved to be another solid sector, delivering five Gold medals. Winners included Havana Club 7 Years Old, with “toffee, caramel and some coffee” on the palate. Bardinet’s Old Nick Dark rum also received a Gold medal for being “rich and creamy”.

In the Dark Rum – Aged 7 to 12 Years heat, four Gold medals and one Silver were awarded. Ten To One Dark Rum received a Gold medal for notes of “liquorice toffees, and black pepper on the finish”. Barcelo Imperial also received a Gold medal for being “dark and fruity with quite a lot of intensity for 38% ABV”.

One Gold and one Silver medal were handed out during the Dark Rum – Aged Over 13 Years flight. The Gold medal was bagged by Autentico Nativo 20 Years Old, with “lots of dark fruits and sponge cake”.

Three Masters

The judges were particularly excited by the Dark Rum Overproof round that followed, and awarded three deserving Master medals. Worthy Park 109 Proof received the top medal for notes of “cherry and Sherry” on the nose, leading to “bold rummy flavours – toffee, toasted brown sugar” on the palate.

Vok Beverages bagged two Masters, one for Cask Strength Rum with its “incredible nose and great complexity”, and a second for its Navy Strength expression, full of “delicate honeyed aromas. Excellent texture, with some fun agricole notes”. Plantation OFTD Overproof took home a Gold award.

The Rhum Agricole flight continued the high standard, with another three Master medals, collected by Depaz Distillery for Depaz XO, Depaz VSOP and Depaz Vieux Plantation.

“This was the best flight for me so far,” enthused Menezes. “I’d happily drink these for the rest of the day.” Depaz XO had a “sweet and vegetal profile”, enhanced by a “touch of smoke”. “Good complexity,” agreed the judges. Depaz VSOP had a “resinous, rich, dry quality” on the palate. “Lovely and complex; fruity, but not ‘in your face’ agricole”, the judges enthused. Depaz Vieux Plantation had a “rich, fruity nose”, with a “touch of dark cocoa” when sipped.

Six Gold medals joined the ever‐expanding medal haul. Medals were secured by Trois Rivières Double Wood, with its “bold, vegetal funk”, and Maison La Mauny Extra – 42% ABV.

Rodriguez said about the latter expression: “A wonderful and aromatic nose; lots of juice and sweet fruits, apricots, nectarines. I really enjoy this nose. The palate has a wonderful smoothness to it, playful and fruity character with the Bourbon cask coming through with a rye, dusty character, banana, vanilla and wood smoke.” Six Silver medals brought the medal tally in this flight to 15 awards.

Killoughery said: “This is what I would want agricole to be like for me to sip it. These are rums I’d definitely enjoy. They’ve got depth and breadth of flavour.” Menezes agreed, adding: “These would not be alien, or intimidating, for non‐agricole drinkers.” The Spiced round also delivered some standout products – most notably Master medallists Don Q Oak Barrel Spiced Rum and Hidden Loot Dark Reserve.

Don Q Barrel Spiced Rum impressed the judges with its “cinder toffee nose with a touch of butterscotch Angel Delight”. Abbott said: “The palate is rich, rounded and not too sweet, with toffee and gentle spice.”

Hidden Loot Dark Reserve offered “bright, tangy orange notes” with “vanilla sweetness, toffee, warming spice and a touch of green chilli heat”.

Toffee apple

The five Gold medals were awarded to: “pleasant and slightly herbal” Spiced Rum 3; “thick and sweet” Diablo Spiced Rum; “toffee apple” Two Lasses Yorkshire Spiced Rum; “orange and warm” Rosemullion Spiced Rum; and “perfumed” Sly Dog Spiced Rum. A strong set of 10 Silvers brought the round to a close.

The judges then assessed a set of Cane Spirit/Cachaça entries – and were hugely impressed. Three Masters were snapped up by Dom Tápparo Engenho Desde 1978. The producer’s Cachaça Duas Madeiras Extra Premium was hailed for being a “good entry level for someone who wants to explore cachaça more”.

Fellow Master medallist Cachaça Carvalho Americano 10 Anos was described as a “more traditional cachaça” and “expertly made”. Cachaça Cabaré Extra Premium 15 Years received a Master award for its “vermouth‐like aroma” leading to a “nicely rounded, balanced” flavour profile.

A Gold medal was also handed to Cheramie Rum Blanc by Porchjam Distillation. Killoughery was enthusiastic about the flight. “I loved the diversity; it was interesting to see how different all four spirits were. Some categories can give similar notes across the board, but these all varied quite a lot.”

Flavoured rums have been getting a lot more attention over the past couple of years, and the judges were happy to see that there are a number of bottlings made to a high standard. The flight produced nine Gold medals, with flavours ranging from pineapple to banana, and orange and ginger.

Among the Gold winners were: “caramelised pineapple, balanced” Langs Pineapple Rum; “silky texture, resinous” Discarded Banana Peel Rum; and Captn Webb’s Two Swallows Orange & Ginger, which “smells like Christmas”. The flavoured rums also offered 12 solid Silvers.

Rockstar Spirits offered a trio of flavoured overproof rums in the next flight, securing a Gold for Passionfruit Grenade with “tangy passionfruit and tropical fruit”, and two Silvers, one for Cherry Bomb and a second for Grapefruit Grenade. Prousaefs said: “We’ve got some brilliant examples of flavoured rums, proudly representing the category, showcasing that we are moving away from the traditional aspect of the additive flavourings in rum, which is amazing.”

Fruit flavours

A further three medals – one Gold and two Silvers – were awarded in the Spirit Drink flight, which looked at entries bottled below 37.5% ABV. Havana Club Verde was deemed to be up to the Gold medal standard, hailed for its “fruit flavours: mango, lime, pineapple”, which the judges said would be great for mixing.

The penultimate heat assessed flavoured spirit drinks that also sat below 37.5% ABV. A Master entry was found in the form of Božkov Republica Espresso. Bacardí Coconut won a Gold medal, while Takamaka Rum Zannannan and Takamaka Rum Koko won two of the round’s four Silver medals.

Finally, the judges looked at a flight of Rum Liqueurs, and the last Master medal of the day was celebrated. Ti’ Arrangés De Ced Graal Citron Passion was awarded the Master title for its likeness to a “tart rum Punch”. Worthy Park Estate won Gold for Rum‐ Bar Rum Cream, and Redcastle Cold Brew Coffee Rum Liqueur also walked away with Gold. Four Silver medals concluded the initial tasting.

After giving their palates a much‐needed rest, the judges were refreshed and ready to retaste the Master entries. With such a broad selection of Master entries to work through, it was one of the hardest deliberations in The Global Spirits Masters series.

However, the votes were counted and verified, and the title of Rum & Cachaça Taste Master 2022 was bestowed upon Rum‐Bar White Overproof Rum. The biggest takeaway from the day was how far rum has come since the days it was lambasted for being sugary sweet and overly caramelised.

While there are still expressions that lean too far in this direction, the judges were heartened to see many positive strides being taken to creating more balanced, nuanced, yet flavourful products.

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White Rum – Standard (£0‐£15)

White Rum – Premium (£16‐£20)

White Rum – Ultra Premium (£31+)

White Overproof

Gold Rum – Premium (£0‐£25)

Gold Rum – Super Premium (£26‐£40)

Gold Rum – Ultra Premium (£40+)

Gold Rum – Aged up to 7 years

Gold Rum – Aged 8‐12 years

Dark Rum – Premium (£0‐£25)

Dark Rum – Super Premium (£26‐£40)

Dark Rum – Ultra Premium (£40+)

Dark Rum – Aged up to 7 years

Dark Rum – Aged 7 to 12 years

Dark Rum – Aged over 13 years

Dark Rum – Overproof

Agricole Rhum

Spiced

Cane Spirit/Cachaça

Flavoured Rum

Flavoured Overproof

Spirit Drink (up to 37.5% ABV)

Flavoured Spirit Drink (up to 37.5% ABV)

Rum Liqueurs