Few places have profited from the craft spirit boom like the colonial Mexican city of Oaxaca, whose mezcalerias have become must-visit destinations for a growing number of spirit lovers drawn by a sense of adventure, writes Tess Rose Lampert.

Oaxaca has transformed into the hottest craft spirit destination in North America

In the last three years, Oaxaca has transformed from an under-the-radar foodie haven into the hottest craft spirit destination in North America. The changing landscape has brought an invasion of foreigners to populate the mezcalerias, or mezcal bars.

This influx of adventurous visitors has spurred the opening of a new bar what seems like every month, each more modern than the last. For those after a more traditional experience, this can still be found at veteran bars that have been pouring mezcal long before it was an international sensation.

Traditionally, mezcalerias are small, unadorned spaces that could easily be confused with a cafe in the final stages before a soft opening. The raw decor, often featuring a dried flowering maguey stalk and old glass jugs, offers a special charm in its simplicity, as if the space could be from any time period. Other essentials include a wide variety of mezcals – the more obscure the better – and a small menu of other drinks and snacks (not meals).

The most important aspect of classic mezcalerias is a person tending bar that can tell you, in depth, about all of their offerings. These humble Oaxacan outposts are houses of education, transmitted one copita at a time.

Many of the newcomers exchange authenticity for mainstream appeal in an effort to attract young and affluent out-of-owners. Live music takes the focus off of candid conversations about harvest and agave age, and places it on enjoying the sociable high you get from drinking good mezcal. The spaces are sleek and expansive, drawing in passers-by from the street. These hybrid westernised mezcal bars have persuaded successful bartenders from cities like Los Angeles and New York to quit their high-level jobs in favour of a simpler, more mezcal-filled gig down in Oaxaca.

As the exchange of culture flows, the previously limited cocktail scene is starting to blossom. Trends from major cities across the globe are finding their way to Oaxaca more quickly, thanks to the growing international population of residents and frequent guests.
Many of the old-guard mezcalerias still refuse to offer mixed drinks, staying faithful to their original vision. For now, the new and the old exist happily side by side, with no discernable shortage of eager imbibers.

Click through the following pages to discover our pick of the top five bars in Oaxaca, Mexico.

IN SITU

Calle José María Morelos No 511, Centro, Oaxaca, Mexico
As old-school as it gets, this bare bones mezcaleria offers the most expansive selection of rare mezcals in town. The industry crowd of distillers and brand owners is friendly and offers an opportunity to get to know the spirit on a deeper level, beyond what’s in the glass.

MEZCALERITA

Calle Macedonio Alcalá No 706, Centro, Oaxaca, Mexico
This dimly but colourfully lit nook has a local vibe, offering a wide array of craft beverages from pulque to beer and wine – and, of course, an impressive wall of mezcal. Their menu of homemade snacks offers a taste of authentic Oaxacan cuisine in a lively, laid-back atmosphere.

MEZCALOTECA

Reforma No 506, Col Centro, Oaxaca, Mexico
More of an educational tasting room than a bar; formal tastings are by reservation only. The selection here is unique and worth investigating, and the price of a tasting includes a guaranteed basic schooling in mezcal.

MEZCALOGIA

Calle Garcia Vigil No 509, Centro, Oaxaca, Mexico
The small wooden space looks like a traditional mezcaleria and feels like a fun dive bar, in the best possible way. Live music, a solid mezcal selection, and a young crowd make for a memorable night of fun, every time.

PIEDRA LUMBRE

Tinoco y Palacios No 602, Ruta Independencia, Centro, Oaxaca, Mexico
This fabulously hip speakeasy fills up fast and is often running on a waiting list. Once inside, the space is so sleek and packed full of English-speaking twentysomethings you might think you are in Brooklyn. The mezcal they have on offer is worth fighting your way to the bar for.