Top 10 craft spirits descriptions

A lack of clarity around the meaning of “craft” in spirits is proving meddlesome for producers big and small – here are some enlightening descriptions offered by leading members of the trade.

There are many different opinions with regards to what constitutes “craft” in spirits. Picture credit: Matthew Nuernberger at GrandTen Distilling in Boston

Over the past year or so, the prevailing topic of debate across the spirits industry has revolved around the meaning of what it is to be “craft”, “small batch” or “artisan”.

Consumers and smaller distillers alike have called large producers out for what they see as “appropriation” of the craft spirits identity. They argue that such firms do not have craft credentials, but use the term to “falsly” market their products.

However, big drinks groups have argued that they too can play a vital role in the sector, and that their products also involve hand crafted human contact, despite their scale of production.

The issue has become even more cloudy as multinationals snap up once independent, small batch producers at a rate of knots.

Meanwhile numerous members of the independently owned, small scale distilling community argue that a maximum production capacity should not be imposed at an official level since this may dissuade growth.

Amid competing and conflicting arguments around what craft spirits really are, we’ve rounded up some insightful descriptions from distillers, ambassadors and commentators across the breadth of the industry.

Click through the following pages to see our pick of the top 10 craft spirits descriptions.

Wes Henderson, chief innovation officer and co-founder of Louisville Distilling Company

(Pictured, centre) “I can use our brand as an example of what I believe is craft: a product that is produced in a way that has human hands involved throughout a good portion of the production process and was created by someone who has an art for craft and an artists’ mentality.

“You don’t have to be a tiny company to be craft: it’s more a mentality and a mindset than a specific definition. But at the end of the day, it’s the consumer who decides what they believe to be handcrafted.”

Alex Nicol, managing director of The Spencerfield Spirit Company

“Craft distilling should not just mean small batch; it ‘s not something that can be defined by numbers – it’s not the difference between 60,000 litres of 6,000. Craft should mean the ability and understanding of distilling.

“You’re probably working in much smaller quantities as craft distillers, but it’s not necessarily about the size of the still – it’s about innovation. The big players simply don’t have the time to innovate on the scale we do, and so I find it difficult to accept them as craft gins.”

JC Iglesias, global brand director for English gins, Pernod Ricard

“Craft is an interesting one because from our perspective and talking to consumers and bartenders I think at the end of the day it comes down to whether you as a customer can see the authenticity in it. It’s a product where you know who makes it, you know how it’s made, where it gets made and a sense of its history. We don’t define ourselves as craft but we say the kinds of things of the ‘craft movement’, if you want to call it that.”

Lance Winters, master distiller at St. George Spirits

“I think different craft distilleries have different definitions. There are so many opinions out there which make it such a difficult term and I try to shy away from it. For me, it means integrity, quality and being inventive. It’s not all about size and big companies could be involved in the craft sector. Size alone isn’t a valid definition. You could be a smaller company that isn’t being creative and just copying other styles out there.

“Providing people with a local option that tastes good isn’t enough. But I think there needs to be legal transparency as people should not be able to get away with telling lies through marketing.”

Ewan Morgan, master of whiskey at Diageo’s Orphan Barrel Distilling Company

“We’d say that the debate and conversation around great whiskies is part of what makes this whole thing so fun. As for what is or isn’t a ‘craft spirit’, that’s up for debate and can vary across categories including single malts, Bourbons etc. Our mission is to find these rare whiskeys and share them with discerning adult sipper who truly enjoy the beauty that went into making them. If their rarity and collectability makes them craft – that’s great.

“One of the best parts about distilling has always been flexibility and innovation. Stifling participation and conversation via strict definitions could repress some of that creativity. Craft is about artisanship, passion, experience, great liquid, great products. Not all small distilleries are craft, and not all craft distilleries are small.”

Nate Brown, co-manager of The London Bar Consultants and Merchant House

“No one has ever asked for a craft gin when they walk into a bar. No one asks for small batch or artisan. Does it sell gin? No, it does not. Craft is a generic word; it’s an eroded term. Where we exist in bars, craft means nothing. Craft is a product of success off these bigger brands. Consumers need a stepping stone, something that justifies their choice or they don’t want choice at all, and that’s where this big craft void opens up. Craft is the banner with which these void fillers march.”

Nicholas Cook, director general of The Gin Guild

“I think the term craft is being abused. There’s a big gap as to what it means and what consumers understand it to mean. The industry does seem to recognise gins that aspire to being small, or made by hand, small batch or having some sort of heritage – even if it was only yesterday – as being craft.

“I think it’s perfectly right that there’s the use of that word for brands in the industry who actually make the spirits themselves. But there are a few brands I am not going to name who do embellish their story by blatantly lying or alluding that they make it and they do a big disservice to the consumer. If people abuse that terminology in an attempt to bamboozle consumers then they will suffer. I don’t think we’re going to see a legal definition any time soon.”

Chip Tate – founder of Tate & Co

“There’s always room for debate about what craft really is. It has to be smaller output, but it’s not obvious what exactly this should be. You can’t necessarily produce 100,000 cases and call yourself craft, that’s just savvy marketing. I think the most important thing is transparency as there is a lot of doubt about what craft spirits are.

“Personally, I see craft as a performance art and forming traditions through innovation. There’s also an aspect of independence and having the ability to be creative. So the important thing is to have some understanding of your craft – take what you have been given, respect it and ad something fresh to it. I don’t think implementing a size cap is the most helpful conversation to have right now. My concern is to do with what is obviously not craft. The specifics are going to take time, but bare-faced misrepresentation is an issue.”

Emily Miles, author of Craft Spirit World: A guide to the artisan spirit-makers and distillers you need to try

“Certainly the romantic might like to think of these charmingly amateur operations as having been spawned like a mad-cap individual’s dream and realised in a garden shed, but, in reality, there are plenty of grey areas where ‘craft’ and ‘commercial’ can look pretty similar.

“Craft should feel both artisan and also a little renegade: no-one is saying these craft distilleries are doing things better than the industry’s big boys, but they are sure as heck doing things their own way.

“At its roots, craft distilling is about integrity – in the ingredients, the process, the philosophy and the end result. If what’s in the bottle tastes good, then that’s evn better.”

Charlie Downing, head of gin at Diageo

“Craft is definitely a word that’s banded around a lot. There’s craft everything; craft, craft, craft. Craft means a real sense of care; real care in your liquid, your packaging, care in how you execute in store, in how the world sees you. I think it absolutely applies to Diageo’s gin brands. I kind of reject the notion craft needs to be small because every single batch that’s produced of our brands is what I would consider as crafted.”