Pioneering Scotch whisky experiments
Rather than bemoaning another set of regulations, these Scotch whisky producers are relishing the challenge of innovating within what is already a very strict category.
Click through the following pages to see four Scotch whisky distilleries pushing the limits of innovation*This article was initially published in the March 2015 issue of The Spirits Business magazine
Depending on who you speak to, the fact that Scotch whisky is one of the most tightly regulated consumables on the planet can be a positive or negative thing. Some producers believe the industry’s production processes must be closely protected to safeguard hundreds of years of heritage, while others consider the rules as badly stifling innovation.
Regardless of which side of the fence you sit, the legislation governing Scotch whisky production is about to get a whole lot tighter. By now all bulk importers, blenders, bottlers and labellers must have applied for the EU’s new Spirit Drinks Verification Scheme, which is open to any spirit produced in the region with a geographical indication (GI). Distilleries themselves however have until 10 July to sign up with Her Majesty’s Revenue & Customs (HMRC) in the UK.
What does all this mean? Essentially, in order to continue carrying the term “Scotch whisky” on their labels, brand owners must comply with biennial checks by HMRC to ensure five key aspects of their liquid’s production meet EU technical specifications. The five areas subject to scrutiny are: fermentation, distillation, maturation, blending, bottling and labelling of final product. Simply put, those that fail can’t name their products as Scotch.
While some feel this extra level of security for the Scotch whisky category is another nail in creativity’s coffin, a handful of producers are already discovering exciting ways to innovate. Forget adding flavours (it can’t be called Scotch then anyway); we’re talking about innovation within the production process – four of the five areas down to be checked by HMRC. Some are more closed about their experiments than others, but these four distillers are keen to show how to have fun with Scotch whisky production, and still colour within the lines.
HMRC will publish details of all verified Scotch whisky brands and facilities, including their processes, in Jan 2016.
Click through the following pages to see four Scotch whisky distilleries pioneering innovation in the industry.
For more information on which Scotch whisky brands are excelling in the industry, see our Global Scotch Whisky Masters 2015 published in the June issue of The Spirits Business magazine.
Isle of Arran: Bere Barley
In his own words, Isle of Arran distillery manager James MacTaggart is a traditionalist; in his opinion, there are certain elements of the Scotch whisky production process that shouldn’t be tampered with. After 38 years working in whisky, MacTaggart has come to realise that industry standard M-strain distillers’ yeast and Concerto barley should not be messed around with. “The older distillery managers like me are always loathe to change anything within the process,” he says. ”We are not innovators because we believe in the quality we’ve got and we don’t want to compromise that.”
So why is Isle of Arran listed here among other innovators? Because in 2004 the distillery was approached by Orkney College to look into alternative uses for Bere barley. As one of the oldest-known strains of barley still cultivated, and notoriously difficult to grow, Isle of Arran was asked to distil 15 tonnes of the agricultural product as part of a one-off partnership. Of the 15 tonnes, the distillery yielded just 40 casks, which were split into two expressions: an eight-year-old released in 2012 and a 10-year-old released in 2014. Ironically, both Arran and Bruichladdich distilleries released their own Bere barley at the same time, but the Islay producer’s carried a 2006 vintage. Even MacTaggart admits the Bere barley expressions carried a “markedly different” taste profile to Arran’s usual new make.
Elsewhere, while fermentation and distillation experimentation may be strictly out-of-bounds for MacTaggart, as far as dabbling in cask finishes is concerned, the world is his oyster.
“We’ve put new spirit in Champagne casks and Château Margot casks which are coming up to 10 years old now and are very good, but we can’t release them as that as both names are protected,” he laments. “They are just about ready for release, but they won’t go out with Champagne or Château Margot on them. We need to think very carefully how we word it.”
Glenmorangie: Yeast
According to Glenmorangie’s head of whisky creation, Dr. Bill Lumsden, the future of Scotch whisky innovation will centre on fermentation, and more specifically, yeast strains. For the past 10 years, the distiller has experimented with different strains and their effect on flavour within the finished product. While the majority of the Scotch industry opts for the standard distillers’ yeast, Lumsden has hinted that the Highland distillery will soon be using its own unique yeast strain in all its whiskies.
Claiming to be inspired by the late whisky writer, Michael Jackson, who once wrote that Glenmorangie had its own bespoke yeast strain, Lumsden says: “I found no evidence of that in all the books so I thought, ‘I’m going to do it’.” While the Highland distillery has played around with a variety of winter barley strains, including Maris Otter for its latest release, Tusail, as well as Puffin barley – stocks of which are still maturing – Lumsden believes yeast will be the future of Scotch whisky innovation. For starters, he says, alternative barley strains are “just too difficult to get hold of”.
He explains: “I like to think for a typical Speyside whisky of the style of Glenmorangie 10, Glenfiddich 12 or Glenlivet 12, there’s a 60/40 split in flavour, with 60% coming from the maturation and 40% coming from the distillery character. Of that 40%, at least half of it is given by the activity of the yeast – that’s quite a lot of flavour to play around with. Unquestionably in my tiny little mind, that’s the next big thing in terms of bringing new flavours to bear.”
Bruichladdich: Terroir
Bruichladdich has been no stranger to experimentation within Scotch whisky; under the guidance of former MD Mark Reynier the Islay distillery has relentlessly pushed the boundaries of the expected with expressions like Octomore, the “peatiest Scotch on the planet”, Islay Barley and Bruichladdich Bere Barley.
Continuing the distillery’s ethos, this time under the guidance of French drinks group Rémy Cointreau, outgoing master distiller Jim McEwan, who announced his decision to retire this year, is looking into the effect terroir has on whisky. Not where it is matured or distilled, but where the barley is grown. “We’ve dissected the country just like France with its Bordeaux, Burgundy and Jura regions,” he enthuses. “No-one’s done it before, but we have because we believe in terroir 100%.”
McEwan has been working with farmers in eight segmented regions of Scotland, who have each been growing 100 tonnes of Concerto barley in exactly the same way for the past four years. The barley is then malted separately, but in the same way, and shipped to Islay where it is mashed, distilled and lain down in American oak casks one batch at a time. Even the casks lay next to each other in the warehouse to ensure even maturation.
“The difference of the flavour from region to region is superb. In the north of Scotland the soil is different to the west and east coast, as is the barley that grows inland as opposed to the barley that is coastal. Every day our barley gets salty rain because the wind comes from the west in Islay, and it is strong so the barley has to go down deep with its roots to withstand the pressure. The way the different conditions manifests itself in the new spirit is quite magical, and the difference is still there as the maturation continues.”
Eden Mill: Beer Inspiration
There are well over 100 whisky distilleries currently in operation in Scotland, but just the one that also produces beer on-site. Eden Mill is Scotland’s only brewery-distillery, having fired up its stills just four months ago. Co-owner Paul Miller has used his vast experience at Diageo, Glenmorangie and most recently Coors, to patch together the worlds of craft distilling and brewing in one place.
If this isn’t innovative enough, Eden Mill has combined the traditions of both sectors in its Scotch whisky. Instead of simply using traditional distiller’s malt, Concerto, Eden Mill is utilising its brewing heritage by using malts inherent to beer in its mash – Golden Promise, which is historically local to Fife, for the St Andrew’s Spirit; chocolate malt for Hogmanay and crystal malt for Burns Spirit. “We are on a mission to try to demystify how Scotch whisky is made and perhaps show consumers an alternative way things are done,” Miller says.
While it’s obviously too early for the team to know whether the alternative mashes will result in unique flavour profiles in the finished whisky, Miller claims the result off the still is clear. “The difference in the new make is quite marked; very distinctive,” he says. To help the whisky on its way to innovation glory, the distillery is maturing each spirit in a quarter cask designed to complement its character: the St Andrew’s Day spirit rests in French oak, Hogmanay in American oak and Burns spirit in American oak. Eden Mill is also monitoring the difference between each spirit by resting a batch in virgin American oak quarter casks.
Miller adds: “Innovation can also come from experimentation with cask sizes. The spirit is important but it remains to be seen as to how important with experiments like we’re doing now.
“The code that Scotch whisky has regulated itself by over the years stands the industry in really good stead. We are living in an era where authenticity is increasingly something that’s valued by consumers and it’s important that Scotch recognises that, and emerging craft distilling recognises those values.”
