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Top 5 best bars in… Rome
By SB Staff WriterWhile Rome may not be known for its thriving cocktail culture, there are signs the dominating Spritz is giving way, as BarChick discovers
BarChick rounds up the top five best bars in RomeRome is an epicurean’s dream: the Tiber runs red with fine wine and the cobbled streets are paved with hand-rolled tagliatelle, or something to that effect. But would you come to Rome for cocktails? Not likely. Stubbornly nostalgic, this is a city many accuse of being stuck in the past, and that is arguably the case when it comes to much of Rome’s bar culture. But could a younger generation, influenced by global drinking trends, be fuelling a turnaround?
On paper, it looks unlikely. Over the past five years there has been a steady decline in total volume of spirits sales across the country as a whole, falling by 3% in 2012 alone. Poor economic conditions have left many without the pocket money for fancy cocktails, or any cocktails at all.
However, one Italian tradition is still going strong despite tough times. The aperitivo is as popular as lunch, with people spilling out of offices come 6pm and heading for their favourite spots. Appealing to the cash-strapped, the purchase of one drink allows free access to the abundant spread of food, with aperitivo bars trying to out-compete their neighbours in the gourmet stakes. These aren’t just traditional, vine-covered wine spots, but trendy art bars like Trastevere’s Freni e Frizioni, which serves a delicious, mainly vegetarian, buffet daily, or shabby chic hipster haunt Bar del Fico.
And the drink of choice is the Aperol Spritz. About an hour into our first visit to Rome, we asked the bartender what the bright orange drink was on every other table in the bar. This was back in 2005, and ever since Aperol, which is produced by Campari Group along with its darker, more bitter namesake sibling, has been having its moment in the sun. Now appearing on backbars throughout Europe, Aperol currently accounts for more than a third of growth at the company that also brings us Skyy Vodka and Wild Turkey Bourbon.
Longstanding bar trends
Savvy bartenders are getting creative with this longstanding trend. For example, Freni e Frizioni’s Cristian Bugiada created the Amanita Spritz, made with Sparkling Rose, Cynar, fresh pink grapefruit juice and soda. Beyond the Spritz, Aperol has found a place in other cocktail creations too, occasionally appearing as a replacement for Campari in a softer style Negroni or found adding a bitter touch to a Martini. George Cerrone of Caffè Propaganda, said: “The Spritz scene is still massive, but we are trying to work with this to introduce different things.” He uses Aperol in a new cocktail along with Pimm’s and Porto Rosso.
Local pioneer Patrick Pistolesi has been inspiring and educating an army of young bartenders through seminars and inviting international cocktail masters to his bar, Rome’s first speakeasy-style joint, The Jerry Thomas Project.
Bugiarda told us: “It’s still Mojito, Mojito, Mojito. But there is a new trend for a twist on classic, original recipes. The Old Fashioned, Manhattan, Sazerac or Mint Julep are coming back from the past, especially the Moscow Mule.” On our most recent visit to Rome, every hot bar seemed to have its own variation on the Moscow Mule, and it was the young cool crowd that were knocking them back.
A spate of hotspots have opened up in the last year that reflect this small but burgeoning scene, such as Il Niji, which has an incredible selection of homemade bitters, or Caffè Propaganda. It seems like the city is catching up with the global trend towards gentrification, with bars like Porto Fluviale in up-and-coming Ostiense or Aventino’s Papageno, neither of which would look out of place in Brooklyn.
While these are still early days for the cocktail scene in Rome, there is definitely a move towards future innovation. Whether this is enough to change the fate of the country’s spirit sales remains to be seen.
Flick through the next few pages to discover the best bars in Hong Kong.
For more global bar recommendations, visit BarChick.
Caffe Propaganda
Via Claudia, 15; caffepropaganda.it
With a 1930’s Parisian brasserie vibe, this new bar/restaurant hybrid attracts a stylish crowd. Chic guests sit at the bright airy bar and sip seasonal cocktails. Passionate bartenders are at the forefront of trends, with Mezcal taking centre stage on a menu full of delicious creations served in cut-crystal glasses.
The Jerry Thomas Project
Vicolo Cellini, 30; thejerrythomasproject.it
You’ll need a password to get past the discreet door near Chiesa Nuova and into Rome’s first speakeasy. With red walls, comfy sofas and jazz music, the 1920’s vibe is strong, and the drinks are as classic as you’d expect from a bar named after the original bartender. However, the drinks list leans more towards the Sazerac than the Spritz.
Niji Caffe
Jazzy tunes fill the air at Niji, an intimate Trastevere bar full of mis-matched furniture and wildly creative ingredients. Think smoked Scottish beer reduction and pineapple vinegar.
The Gin Corner
Opened by Patrick Pistolesi, he is known as the godfather of cocktail culture in the eternal city, and his new venue Gin Corner is the city’s first dedicated gin bar, boasting more than 200 G&T concoctions and a lovely list of gins, including London’s Sacred Gin.
Freni e Frizioni
Via Del Politeama, 4/6; freniefrizioni.com
Freni e Frizioni (Brakes and Clutches) is a sleek, art-filled bar in a former garage. The area’s young, creative set head here for their candle-lit all-you-can-eat vegetarian buffet and aperitivo cocktails on the outside table by the river Tiber, before heading off for a big night out.