The Best Bars in… Paris

The French capital’s bar scene combines a reverence for its past with a passionate zeal for the latest trends. Raconté par Tom Sandham

Paris’ heritage plays a vital role in its cocktail revolution

The discovery of many a decent drinking opportunity in Paris should come as no surprise; Paris has pedigree. Just ask Ernest Hemingway, who spent more than a few of his formative years drinking here, and even created a cocktail for himself. Death in the Afternoon did exactly what it said on the tin by infusing two of his most adored drinks: absinthe and Champagne.

A similar blend of appreciation and experimentation can be found in Paris cocktails today, not least in the new wave of excellent bars that have earned global recognition. Key protagonists in the city’s most recent chapter of bars include Romee de Goriainoff with Olivier Bon and Pierre Charles Cross, who set up the hugely successful Experimental Cocktail Club. Blending classic charm with contemporary creations, they alerted resident Parisians to the wonders of mixed drinks, and encouraged the rest of the world to consider the city’s quality cocktail landscape.

The Paris Bar show has now become a mainstay on the bar industry’s calendar, with leading lights Eric Fossard and Thierry Daniel establishing one of the best events available to bartenders. Heritage has been a crucial component in the revolution in bar culture here, with an eye fixed on classic cocktails, but this new global focus on the city has inspired innovation too. The team behind Experimental, for example, has pushed the boundaries further and now includes bars such as Curio in its stable, where Arthur Combe mixes cocktails.

“When it comes to Paris, first of all, people are looking for an atmosphere, a place where they feel good,” says Arthur. “After that, people like simple things, and quality, so fresh fruits, first-class spirits.

“People are very into Pisco and Tequila. Maybe the fact that great new things are available has something to do with that, or maybe it is just because bartenders like me love using spirits like this!”

Brand pioneers such as Xavier Padovani, formerly of Hendrick’s, have helped categories such as gin to shine in the city. And obviously vodka does here what vodka does all over, ticking the boxes, making the money. But native tipples are coming back into fashion.

Cognac, absinthe and music

Cognac’s reliance on exports is well documented, but venues in Paris exhibit a lot of affection for the spirit. Indeed, bartenders such as Arthur and his peers have a host of exceptional drinks on their lists using it as a base.

Absinthe too is held in high regard, although perhaps encountered more as an additional ingredient than as the base of the drink, but certainly the leading bar professionals are keen to showcase the extraordinary drinks heritage enjoyed by city and country alike. And the commitment to quality in the French capital hasn’t gone unnoticed by other European bartenders, with the city recently attracting the attentions of some British stalwarts.

Tony Conigliaro, of 69 Colebrooke Row and Zetter Townhouse fame, has set his sights on Paris, with his talented bartender and operations manager Marcis Dzelzainis overseeing the opening of his new bar here. Le Coq is a collaboration with Eric Fossard and Thierry Daniel and is set to pay homage to the 1970s. Says Marcis: “The cocktail scene is very fresh and vibrant. We’ve made quite a few trips over there in the last couple of years and we’ve always been impressed by the new guard, both in terms of food and drink. What chefs like Inaki Aizpitarte were doing in terms of precise, simple, clean flavours really resonated with our approach to drink-making.

“It’s a city that has changed a lot in the last four to five years. There’s a good music scene and the drinks and food side of things have come into their own. What I love about Paris is that it’s a city you have to work at; it doesn’t reveal itself in an immediate way. You have to walk and talk to people to get to know it.”

Which are Paris’s leading bars? Find out on the next page…

Experimental Cocktail Bar
37 rue Saint-Sauveur, Paris
www.experimentalcocktailclub.com
Enjoying some of the facets of the speakeasy in its relatively hidden façade and intimate feel, this place is just as much a modern gem. Effortlessly cool, the cocktail menu is progressive but also honours heritage, ensuring classic and simply styled drinks are en vogue.

Curio Parlour
16, rue des Bernardins, Paris.
www.curioparlor.com
Exposed brickwork and dingy den feel emphasise that this is a hidden treat, like the Prohibition-era bars that inspired it. Unlike the dens that hid from temperance, there’s plenty of space to kick back and relax, and the concise drinks list is excellently conceived.

The Hemingway
Ritz Hotel, 15 Place Vendôme, Paris.
www.ritzparis.com
It’ll surprise no-one that Ernest Hemingway frequented this gaff. A modest space, but this isn’t reflected in the fixtures and fittings, or the prices. Plenty of charm and a satisfying dollop of tradition compensate for the whack on your wallet and, while it tends to heave with tourists, you can always expect quality mixed drinks here.

Harry’s Bar
5 rue Daunou, 2e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, Paris
www.harrysbar.fr
This place claims creative rights on a few classic cocktails and, while some are up for debate, most acknowledge the Sidecar took its first wheelspin here. Its heyday was the Prohibition era and an influx of thirsty Yanks, when the revered Harry McElhone was bossing the bar. Somehow Harry’s has preserved its moment in time with the feel and décor, and today manages to mix the feel of museum with genuine amusement.

Le Forum
4 boulevard Malesherbes, Paris
www.bar-le-forum.com
More Prohibition pondering here in a bar that opened its doors back in the 1900s. In the first instance it served up softer sips, but thanks to a swathe of American customers it turned its attention to alcohol. Today you can still enjoy the smart but stern furnishings, dark woods and armchairs that attracted the ’30s jet set, but more modern drinks include the Tommy’s Margarita or Porn Star Martini.

La Conserverie
37 bis rue du Sentier 2e Paris
www.laconserveriebar.com
Bucking stubborn French waiter preconceptions, this place delivers service with a sincere smile. Industrial chic, it makes use of a former textile shop – a welcome alternative to the honest heritage of other illustrious Paris bars. The themes continue with quirky jars for glassware and tins for snacks, but it’s all backed up with quality cocktails, irreverent as they are enjoyable.