The Scotch Whisky Masters 2022 results

This year’s Scotch Whisky Masters showed the diversity of flavours in the sector. Here, we reveal the results from our latest competition.

The Scotch whisky sector is on the road to recovery after its sales were hit by the pandemic and punitive tariffs. The industry’s exports returned to growth last year, rising by 19% to £4.51 billion (US$6.1bn) after hitting their lowest levels in a decade, figures from the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) revealed. There’s a strong appetite for Scotch in key emerging markets such as India, China and Brazil, which all grew by double digits.

New global developments could also bring a welcome boost to the industry, such as the UK and India’s forthcoming free trade agreement (FTA). The deal could lead to the removal of a 150% tariff on Scotch whisky in India, potentially lifting the sector’s exports to the country by £1 billion (US$1.2bn) over five years, the SWA said.

It’s welcome news following the US’s suspension of the 25% tariff on single malt Scotch in June 2021. All of which could be enhanced further if recent negotiations between the UK and Canada for a new FTA prove to be successful.

Quality on the market

As Scotch experiences soaring demand, a panel of leading spirits specialists sought to test the quality of bottlings on the market in The Scotch Masters 2022 competition.

Held at whisky bar and restaurant Boisdale of Canary Wharf, London, last month, the blind‐tasting competition aimed to celebrate the best of the category, with entries shipped and packed anonymously by Sensible.

Forming the first panel of judges were: Jack Dalton, UK and international sales manager of Edinburgh Whisky Academy; independent spirits consultant Ivan Dixon; Ivan Orsini, senior bartender at The Aubrey, in London’s Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park; Malika Kirchel‐Sharper, bar manager at Boisdale, Canary Wharf; and Melita Kiely, editor of The Spirits Business, who chaired the panel.

Karen Taylor, co‐founder of the Whisky for Everyone blog, was the chair of the second panel. Her fellow judges comprised: Derek Millar, retired whisky sales advisor; Alan Uresti, head of agave spirits at Annabel’s; and Evan Prousaefs, bar manager and assistant general manager of Los Mochis, London.

Chaired by Matt Chambers, co‐founder of the Whisky for Everyone blog, the third panel included: freelance writer Ian Wisniewski; Michael Fichtner, whisky sommelier at The Connaught Hotel; and Dimple Athavia, founder of All Things Drinks.

Finally, the fourth panel was chaired by Billy Abbott, ambassador at The Whisky Exchange. He was joined by spirits writer Mark Jennings; Nick Larsson‐Bell, senior buyer at Harvey Nichols; and Nicola Carruthers, deputy editor of The Spirits Business.

The competition kicked off with a blended Scotch flight, resulting in a Gold medal for Diageo’s Johnnie Walker Black Label in the Aged up to 12 Years fround. Uresti said the whisky was “elegant, subtle and balanced”.

The next round, Blended – Aged between 13 and 18 Years saw Diageo grab another Gold medal, this time for its 18‐year‐old Johnnie Walker whisky, which Taylor praised for its “hint of rich toffee and loads of red apples and orchard fruit”.

A flight of no‐age‐statement blends were put to the test next, with one Gold and seven Silvers being dished out. Gold winner Johnnie Walker Blue Label impressed Dixon with its “fruity exotic nose” and “subtle smoke notes”.

The blended Scotch category was assessed by price point, with a flight of Standard bottlings tested first by the panel. Three Silvers were handed out, including one to Aldi’s Highland Black Blended Scotch Whisky.

Moving up the price ladder and the panel sampled premium blended whiskies costing between £21 and £30, with the first Master medallist of the day found in Lauder’s 15 Years Old. Larsson‐Bell described the whisky as “malty, with caramel, vanilla and cherry, with a touch of sharpness and citrus. On the palate, it was rich, creamy, with notes of crème brûlée and an oaky tannic finish.”

Two Golds were given to Green Isle with its “lovely smokiness on the palate” and Islay Mist 8 Years Old, which was noted for being “easy to drink” with hints of fruit, smoke and spice. The flight concluded with a Silver medal for Islay Mist Original. Of the flight, Jennings said: “It showed the blended category has a strong offering; it’s a place where real innovation is happening.”

The bonfire hits

The Blended – Super Premium round bestowed a Gold medal upon 17‐year‐old Islay Mist, which Taylor said offered “sweet toffee apples then the bonfire hits” with “sherbet on the finish”.

A tasting of blended malt whiskies aged 12 years and under discovered three Golds and three Silvers. Douglas Laing & Co scored a hat trick of Golds for its Big Peat 12 Years Old, Scallywag 10 Years Old, and Timorous Beastie 10 Years Old expressions.

The Big Peat bottling was lauded by Chambers for being “peaty and earthy on nose, sweet and syrupy with plenty of powerful peat smoke” with a “hot and peppery finish”. Fitchner noted Scallywag’s hints of “pineapple, red apples and raspberries” while Timorous Beastie 10 Years Old was described by Athavia as “very delicate, almost floral” with a “very woody‐ vanilla new oak character”.

A pair of Golds went to Diageo in the following flight, Blended Malt – Aged between 13 and 18 Years. Old Parr 18 had “nice maltiness on the nose, with icing sugar sweetness and spice on the palate”, said Kiely. The “complex and multifaceted” Johnnie Walker Green Label had a “nice combination of oak and fruit”, noted Dixon.

The following flight, Blended Malt – No Age Statement, culminated in six Gold medals and three Silvers. Compass Box walked away with four Golds, including for the “spicy and gingery” The Story of the Spaniard, the “herbaceous and vegetal” Peat Monster, The Spice Tree, with “flowers and honey on the nose”, and Orchard House, with “sweet red fruits and a gingery finish”.

Gold medallist Old Parr Silver had a “slight Sherry nose and a rounded, long finish” while Douglas Laing’s The Gauldrons scored a Gold medal with its hints of “dried apricot” and “red strawberries on the nose”.

Moving onto super‐premium blended malts, and a worthy Master was awarded to Clydebuilt Shipwright. Larsson‐Bell said the whisky had a “nose of lillies, apricot jam and a touch of spice. On the palate, it is delicious, exceptionally balanced and super creamy.” Abbott noted “leather and toffee” on the nose, alongside “chocolate and dried fruit on the palate, with some sharpness”.

Four Golds were given to Berry Bros & Rudd for its Islay Blended Malt Scotch Whisky with its “superb tropical fruits”, “creamy, fruity” Speyside Blended Malt Scotch Whisky, Peated Cask Matured Blended Malt Scotch Whisky with its “coastal smokiness” and “chocolatey and toffee‐led” Sherry Cask Matured Blended Malt Scotch Whisky.

Also found to be deserving of a Gold medal in this flight was Waterproof, with its notes of “honey, leather and sharp orchard fruit”.

A flight of ultra‐premium blended grain whisky saw Compass Box’s Hedonism secure a Gold medal. Jennings described the whisky as being “delicate and dynamic at the same time” with a “delicious, powdered sugar nose that leads to overripe pears and a warm, wooded finish”.

Single grains were assessed next, with Spearhead Single Grain grabbing a Gold medal in the premium round. Wisniewski described it as having “some nice apple, cider and brioche notes coming through with a hint of crème caramel”. The competition progressed to single malts, with whiskies from the Campbeltown region put to the test.

The Aged up to 12 Years round saw Loch Lomond grab a Silver medal for its 10‐year‐old Glen Scotia whisky. It was followed by the Campbeltown – Aged between 13 and 18 Years round, with Glen Scotia 15 Years Old walking away with a Gold medal. Fichtner enjoyed the expression’s notes of “pink grapefruit, juicy fruit bubblegum and Guadeloupe melon”.

A no‐age‐statement round of Campbeltown single malts saw a Gold go to the “well‐ rounded” Glen Scotia Double Cask, with its “nice spiciness and peppery finish”. A tasting of single cask Campbeltown whiskies saw the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) walk away with the Master accolade for its 93.133 – Apocalypse Cow single malt.

Athavia said: “Without dilution, it’s intense with great complexity, the alcohol is warming instead of burning. With dilution, it’s a bit more elegant, and the balance of fruit and peat is good.”

The final Campbeltown flight to be blind tasted was cask strength single malts with Glen Scotia Victoriana Cask, with its notes of “roasted coffee beans, bananas, pomelo peel, and honey”, taking home Gold.

A selection of single malts from the Highlands and Islands were presented next, starting with expressions aged up to 12 years old. Three Golds were given out, to the “savoury, sweet and textural” Talisker 10 Years Old, the “light and grassy” The Deveron 10 Years Old, and the “bright and tropical” Glencadam 10 Years Old.

In the next age bracket of Highland and Island single malts – aged between 13 and 18 years – seven Gold medallists were found. Among them were Aberfeldy 16 Years Old with its “maritime nose and subtle smokiness”, Aberfeldy Madeira Cask 16 Years Old with “woodfire smoke on the nose”, and Royal Brackla Palo Cortado 18 Years Old, which was “biscuity with some roasted malt notes on the palate”.

Moving onto Highlands & Islands – Aged between 19‐30 Years, three Golds were given to Aberfeldy Madeira Cask 21 Years Old, with its “rich ripe melon nose”, “smooth and subtle” Aberfeldy 21 Years Old, and Royal Brackla Oloroso, Palo Cortado and Pedro Ximénez 21 Years Old, lauded for having “red fruits, spices and honey on the nose”.

Three Golds were found in the no‐age‐ statement Highlands and Islands single malt round – Glencadam American Oak Reserve, with its hints of “ripe banana and bubblegum”, the “very woody” and “lightly smoky” Isle of Raasay Single Malt, and Glencadam Reserva Andalucía, noted for its “big and bold Sherried notes”. One Silver rounded off the flight.

Chambers said: “The Highlands and Islands has come across as a strong category; it’s consistently good, with a lovely mix of characteristics.”

Moving onto a single cask flight within the Highlands and Islands, and the SMWS took its second Master medal of the day for 112.55 – The Devil in Pink Silky Pyjamas. Jennings enthused: “A tropical fruit explosion, deceptively drinkable at full strength, and with water it just sings from the rafters ‘drink me all day long’. I adored this.”

Abbott added: “The palate is well integrated, with the briny side and chocolatey sides very well balanced. “A few drops of water take out the heat and reveal rich toffee.” The SMWS also walked away with a Master and Gold medal in the following flight, Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Cask Strength. Master medallist 94.10 – The Gentle Sparkling Beast From the East impressed Athavia with its nose of “tropical coconuts, bananas and melons”.

She said: “The palate is generous and intense with lots of beautiful custard, crème caramel notes.” Gold medal winner 68.51 – Sacher Torte and Simnel Cake was described by Fichtner as “very herbal, with hints of Chartreuse, extremely nutty, marzipan, milk chocolate and mint”.

Peaty on the palate

The Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Special Edition bestowed a Gold on Isle of Raasay Distillery Special Release, which Athavia praised for being “peaty on the palate but not smoky, which is delicious. Lots of umami – perfect with smoked foods and even barbecued foods.”

In more single malts, the Highlands and Islands region was divided by price bracket, with Standard single malts up first. Highland Shepherd Single Malt Scotch Whisky took home a Gold in the round, said to be “subtle and malty on the nose with cereal notes”.

Premium bottlings from the Highlands and Islands were evaluated in the next flight. Five Golds were dished out to: Highland Park 12 Years Old, with “touches of almond and spice”; Loch Lomond 12 Years Old: Perfectly Balanced with notes of “tropical fruit and star anise”; Triplewood 2021 Release, with its “oak‐focused palate”; “soft and floral” Celtic Revival Single Malt Scotch Whisky; and McKintyre’s Single Malt Scotch Whisky, which had “grassy notes” and a “touch of cream and spice”.

The next price tier, super‐premium, saw a Master medal go to The Glenturret 10 Years Old Peat Smoked 2021 Release. Prousaefs said: “Peaty and herbaceous on the nose. The palate has depth with peat, red fruits, honey and spice and a long, sweet finish. Very smooth for 50% ABV.”

The Glenturret also grabbed a Gold in the flight for the “bold and expressive” 12 Years Old 2021 Release, noted for having “red fruits on the palate and a long Sherry finish at the end”. Highland Park 15 Years Old was the final Gold medallist in the round, with its “green apple and honey notes”.

Silky smooth

The Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Ultra Premium round awarded a Gold to Highland Park 18 Years Old and a Silver to Highland Park 21 Years Old 2020 Release. Kiely said of the former: “Lovely texture, silky smooth with hints of resin, dried fruits, some cherry and oakiness. Hints of dark chocolate and a lot of complexity. Very good balance.”

Scotch whiskies from the Lowlands were judged next, with Bladnoch Alinta taking home Gold in the no‐age‐statement round. Chambers enjoyed the whisky’s “fudge and toffee” on the nose and “soft and creamy” palate with “plenty of vanilla and citrus peel and lemon zest”.

A pair of Masters were discovered in the next flight, Single Malt: Lowland – Premium (£26‐£50). The first, Glasgow 1770 Single Malt Scotch Whisky – Triple Distilled, offered notes of “banana and tropical fruit”. Kiely noted: “Fruitiness follows on the palate with caramel and toffee sweetness. A lot of flavour for the price – I’d be very happy to pay this for a bottle.”

The other Master winner, Aerstone Land Cask, was praised by Dalton for offering a “complex nose” and a “smooth palate with nice smoke flavours with fresh and dried fruits. A pleasant and long finish.” A Silver medal concluded the flight.

The Master standard continued in the super‐premium segment of Lowland single malts. Glasgow Distillery Company secured its second Master for Glasgow 1770 Single Malt Scotch Whisky – Sauternes Cask Finish. Fichtner found notes of “sweet paprika powder, Hungarian goulash and manuka honey. Very savoury but sweet at the same time with smoke, pine, and banana flambé.”

The Speyside region then came under the spotlight with an array of Golds found in a tasting of single malts aged up to 12 years. Seven Golds were awarded, including Tomintoul 12 Years Old Oloroso Sherry Cask Finish with its “butterscotch nose with a touch of aromatic oak”, Tomintoul 10 Years Old with “creamy toffee and gentle spice that builds”, and The GlenAllachie 8 Years Old, praised for its “floral and red fruit notes”.

Other Gold winners included Darkness 8 Years Old, noted for having “vanilla, bubblegum and woody elements on the nose”, The Deveron 12 Years Old with notes of “apple and cinnamon” and “soft and floral” The Singleton of Glen Ord 12 Years Old and stablemate The Singleton of Dufftown 12 Years Old, with its “subtle fruits” and a “touch of cream and spice”. Three Silvers added to the round’s medal tally.

The panel stepped up to taste the next age bracket, 13‐18 years, with four Golds given out. Bacardi swiped two for its 13‐year‐old and 17‐year‐old Craigellachie expressions, with the former praised for its “lovely sweetness on the palate, medjool dates, some ginger cake, and spice”. The latter impressed Kiely with its “big, bold palate, lots of fruit and sweet baking spices”.

Glen Grant 18 Years Old scored a Gold with its “nutty nose, smoky aspects and earthy undertones”, while Gold winner Benromach Aged 15 Years was deemed “quite fresh and light for a peaty whisky”. The flight ended with four Silvers.

Speyside single malts aged between 19 and 30 years were tasted next, with two Golds awarded to Benromach Aged 21 Years and Aultmore 21 Years Old.

The Benromach bottling was said to have “burnt caramel and popcorn aromas, plenty of Sherried fruit and a nutty characteristic, rounded and bold on the palate”. The “silky and luxurious” Aultmore 21 Years Old was described as “juicy and vibrant on the palate with tropical fruits and heather honey”.

Pastel de nata

A flight of no‐age‐statement single malts from Speyside resulted in four Golds: Tomintoul Peaty Tang, Tomintoul Tlàth, Tomintoul Cigar Malt, and Spey Trutina. Tomintoul Peaty Tang offered a “peaty, vegetal and herbaceous” nose, while Tlàth provided a “creamy palate with pastel de nata, vanilla and a very smooth finish”.

Tomintoul Cigar Malt had hints of red fruit, demerara sugar and raisins, and Spey Trutina was described as “juicy with tropical fruits”. One Silver rounded off the flight.

A pair of Masters were unearthed in the Speyside single cask, single malt round. Old Particular Dailuaine 18 Years Old – Old Particular Midnight Series was praised by Prousaefs for its “red fruits, honey and allspice on the nose and palate. The nose is a bit reserved, but the palate is very expressive and complex”.

The other Master winner, “creamy and fruity” 63.63 – Funky Old Bodega from SMWS, was “considerably smooth for the very high ABV” at 66.2%, Prousaefs said. “Very good integration between alcohol and spirit, and a long, smooth finish.” The cask strength segment saw a Gold go to Spey Tenne Cask Strength Batch 3, which Abbott said had a “sweet and jammy” palate with notes of “menthol and building smoke”. The addition of water brought a “fruity sweetness” he added.

Flowers and honey

The last Speyside single malt flight, Special Edition, resulted in a Master win for Benromach Contrasts: Organic. The expression impressed Prousaefs, who said: “Brilliant on the nose, with red fruit, flowers and honey. The palate is very expressive and smooth, with similar notes, and a long Sherry finish.”

The Islay region was up next, with single malts aged up to 12 years put to the test. Atom Brands took home two Golds for Seaweed & Aeons & Digging & Fire 10 Years Old, and Aerolite Lyndsay. The former had a “complex nose, subtle barbeque and smoke with fresh fruits still breaking through” while the latter expression was enjoyed for its “sticky fudge on the palate”, and “nice texture and good balance – a lovely sipping whisky”.

The Single Malt: Islay – No Age Statement round saw Kilchoman Distillery walk away with a Master for Sanaig, and a Gold for Machir Bay. Chambers said the Master winner had a “bold nose with peat vs Sherry in good balance”, while the palate was “bold and punchy, with caramel and dried fruits, late nuttiness – the smoke holds strong”. Machir Bay impressed with its “elegant, sweet peat on the nose, candied fruits and vanilla”, while the palate offered “white chocolate and vanilla with plenty of lemon zest”.

The last Master of the day was awarded to the SMWS’s 53.324 – Lighthouse to Smokehouse in the Islay single malt, single cask flight. Chambers said: “Punchy and powerful peat on the nose, vanilla custard and peachy on the palate with a pinch of cocoa and gingerbread. The peat is super punchy with lovely acrid coastal notes, seaweed and iodine.”

Different flavours

The Single Malt: Islay – Standard round saw Glen Marnoch Single Malt Whisky – Islay from Aldi secure a Silver medal. Dixon said of the Islay single malt round: “It showed different flavours. People associate Islay with one thing, it’s very typecast, big smoky peat bomb. But these showed different characteristics and expressions of this style.”

And in the final round of the day, Flavoured Spirit Drink, Diageo’s Black & White Orange was awarded a Silver medal. As with every blind tasting in The Global Spirits Masters series, it was time to pick the cream of the crop from the Master medallists.

Following a tasting of the highest scorers, it was Old Particular Dailuaine 18 Years Old – Part of the Old Particular Midnight Series that was crowned Scotch Whisky Taste Master 2022.

The judges reflected on the Scotch category following the conclusion of the competition. Dalton singled out the Highlands and Islands, and Lowland regions as areas that took him by surprise for their quality.

He said: “They’re the regions with newer distilleries and the ones being more innovative, which is reflected in my scoring. It’s good to see – especially the Lowlands, which are usually seen as fuller whiskies, but the single malts were exceptional.”

Dixon was hugely impressed by the quality found across the competition. He said: “The quality was really exceptional – you can see why Scotch commands such a place in the world whisky market. Price points over‐delivered on value for money. In general, looking at the styles, there is literally a whisky for all palates or occasions, moods and contexts.”

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Blended – Aged up to 12 Years

Blended – Aged between 13‐18 Years

Blended – No Age Statement

Blended – Standard

Blended – Premium

Blended – Super Premium

Blended Malt – Aged up to 12 Years

Blended Malt – Aged between 13‐18 Years

Blended Malt – No Age Statement

Blended – Super Premium

Blended Grain – Ultra Premium

Single Grain – Premium

Single Malt: Campbeltown – Aged up to 12 Years

Single Malt: Campbeltown – Aged between 13‐18 Years

Single Malt: Campbeltown – No Age Statement

Single Malt: Campbeltown – Single Cask

Single Malt: Campbeltown – Cask Strength

Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Aged up to 12 Years

Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Aged between 13‐18 Years

Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Aged between 19‐30 Years

Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – No Age Statement

Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Single Cask

Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Cask Strength

Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Special Edition

Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Standard

Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Premium

Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Super Premium

Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Ultra Premium

Single Malt: Lowland – No Age Statement

Single Malt: Lowland – Premium (£26‐£50)

Single Malt: Lowland – Super Premium

Single Malt: Speyside – Aged up to 12 Years

Single Malt: Speyside – Aged between 13‐18 Years

Single Malt: Speyside – Aged between 19‐30 Years

Single Malt: Speyside – No Age Statement

Single Malt: Speyside – Single Cask

Single Malt: Speyside – Cask Strength

Single Malt: Speyside – Special Edition

Single Malt: Islay – Aged up to 12 Years

Single Malt: Islay – No Age Statement

Single Malt: Islay – Single Cask

Single Malt: Islay – Standard

Flavoured Spirit Drink