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Spirits Masters

The Gin Masters 2017 results

Gin may have exploded in popularity, but does that mean quality is stretched thin? Not at all; this year’s Gin Masters competition showed the depth of excellence that exists within an exciting sector.

Gin has well and truly made itself comfortable at the top of the spirits pedestal

The almighty growth of the gin category in recent years has been nothing short of remarkable. Propelled by an advancing global cocktail scene, mounting consumer interest in locally made products with heaps of heritage, and an evolving taste for bitter drinks among imbibers, gin has well and truly made itself comfortable at the top of the spirits pedestal.

But with such success comes the risk of complacency, some critics may argue. Nevertheless, the gin sector is seeing more experimentation than ever, as a number of near-­forgotten styles join the ranks of back­-bar staples once again. An increasing number of producers are looking to unusual base ingredients, quirky botanicals, and terroir­-driven flavour profiles – at the same time as maintaining a key focus on quality – meaning there has never been a more exciting time to sample more than 150 gins, which collectively represent the spectrum of the category.

And this was precisely the task for our judges in The Gin Masters 2017. Sixteen spirits experts gathered at The Holy Birds restaurant and bar in London to assess the state of the category, blind tasting an enormous pool of entries divided by price and variety. Each expression was judged on its own merit and scored according to appearance, nose, taste, and overall balance.

The first category to come under scrutiny was Standard gin, which produced just one singular medalist – Aldi’s Oliver Cromwell London Dry Gin. A panel consisting of Ben Lindsay, director at Garnish Communications; Ben Manchester, bar manager of Hubbard and Bell at Soho House; and Brian Calleja, bar manager at the Bloomsbury Club; chaired by me, Amy Hopkins, deputy editor of The Spirits Business, praised the gin for its “classic juniper nose” and “good mixability”, and duly awarded it a Silver medal.

Moving swiftly up the price ladder to the Premium flight, and my panel agreed on a trio of medals: a Gold for Welsh gin Brecon Special Reserve, and two Silvers for Greenall’s Extra Reserve and Barrister Gin. Lindsay enjoyed Brecon’s “beautiful balance”, while Calleja highlighted its “nice long finish”. On the broader premium gin market, Manchester observed that consumers generally look for “something more than one dimensional, but not incredibly complex” that would act a “crowd­ pleaser” when mixed with tonic.

A mammoth Super Premium flight – which was divided between three judging panels because of its size – came next, and yielded an impressive six Master medals – the most of any round throughout the competition. Kicking off the haul of mighty Masters was Sir Edmond Gin, which surprised judges with its heavy vanilla nose, but complex juniper­-forward palate. “For a gin with such a difference between nose and palate, it would be easy for it to be unbalanced – but it worked. It was a pleasant shock,” said Manchester. Lindsay added: “They should be proud to pull off something other people can’t.”

Following in Sir Edmond’s footsteps were a mix of internationally known and smaller independent bands – Siegfried Rheinland Dry Gin, Tanqueray Rangpur, Thomas Dakin, Listoke 1777 Irish Gin, and Makar Glasgow Gin all received Master medals. “This was great, I didn’t want to spit it out,” Lindsay said of Siegfried Rheinland – high praise indeed. He also called Tanqueray Rangpur and example of “lemon flavours done right. Not remotely synthetic.”

Tobias Gorn, of whisky and cigar bar Boisdale, led a panel consisting of Rui Costa, head bartender at Pollen Street Social; Jason Window, business development manager at Mr Fogg’s Gin Parlour; and Sarah Duffill, bar manager at The Trading House. The panel shared the enjoyable load of the Super Premium flight and unanimously loved the “big and spicy” Thomas Dakin. Gorn also described Listoke 1777 Irish Gin as “elegant and unique”, with a “citrus­driven, eucalyptus” flavour.

The final panel to taste the Super Premium offerings was chaired by Craft Distilling Expo founder David T Smith, and comprised Cherry Constable, freelance wine and spirits writer; Nikolai Clerc, bar manager at Street XO; and Sam Mitchell, bar manager at Gillray’s (Marriott Hotels). They gave the Master accolade to Makar Glasgow Gin for its “good juniper structure” and “lingering finish”. In total, the Super Premium category also saw 13 Golds and nine Silvers awarded.

Overall, Gorn was impressed with the round: “There were a couple of beautifully expressive and balanced entries here, with some excellent textures – superb sipping gins.” My panel in particular was pleasantly surprised by the diversity and creativity on display. “This just goes to prove that gin isn’t a one­dimensional category,” said Manchester. “Producers are looking to get their noses in front with points of difference. But it shows you can be different without being gimmicky.”

Hopes were high going into the Ultra Premium round – but Master accolades were demonstrably absent. Quality was, nevertheless, evident across the category, and an array of Golds (12 in total) and Silvers (10) were awarded. On my panel, Lindsay described Tiger Gin as “more viscous than anything else I have tried today”, while Manchester said of Masons Yorkshire Gin – Tea Edition: “The nose is certainly unusual, but then you taste it and it’s great. Lots of bergamot.”

The panel felt that while Ultra Premium showcased some solid, well­-integrated, and balanced gins, the category was generally lacking in experimentaon. “It showed producers can be a bit braver,” commented Lindsay. “When they make a £40 gin, they tend to play it safe.”

Moving on from price to style, and three panels tackled a significant pool of London Dry gins – by far the largest round of the compeon. Gorn’s panel took the first relay and had a clear view of what they were expecng. “London Dry is a consistent style of gin – usually you know what you are going to get and you do get it,” said Duffill. “For me, it’s one of the best categories – simple and elegant, just as gin should be.”

Mirroring the high expectaons for the round, just one Master was awarded. Krisane Sherry, editor of The Spirits Business, led a panel consisting of Nicola Thomson, director at 1571; Luca Cordiglieri, president of the UKBG; and Anna Marnez, head bartender at Street XO, who described the Master recipient, Catz Dry Gin, as “divine”. “I loved this one,” raved Thomson. “There were so many lovely herbs and spices on the palate – it had the freshness of watermelon, along with juniper, and an infusion of basil and tarragon.” In total, 18 Golds and 13 Silvers were dished out.

Sherry’s panel then turned their aenon to a diminuve flight of Old Toms – traditionally a sweeter style of gin that has made a comeback in recent years. Bathtub Gin and Hernö were both applauded for their Old Tom styles and received Golds, while Makar and Barrister were given Silver medals. However, one expression stole the show and was duly named Master – the cask­-rested Citadelle Gin No Mistake Old Tom Gin. “The barrel-­aged elements work really well with the Old Tom style,” observed Sherry. “It’s also really delicate.”

According to Thomson, the future could be bright for Old Tom. “There’s no reason why Old Tom can’t grow with the rest of the category,” she said. “There’s a lot you can do with it – it’s really nice on its own with ice or you can whack it into a cocktail.”

Experimentation, cutting­-edge techniques, and a focus on less traditional flavours were expected in abundance going into the Contemporary round, which resulted in two Master medalists: Four Pillars Spiced Negroni Gin and Hernö Old Tom Gin. On Smith’s panel, Constable commended the “soft, elegant and clean texture” of the Four Pillars bottling, and “smooth, silky” quality of Hernö.

Smith said of the Contemporary round: “It’s fantastic to see so many juniper­-forward gins that also have a bold secondary botanical. They anchor what gin is, while still moving the category forward.” However, Gorn, whose panel also judged the flight, said the vivacity of some Contemporary entrants led to a “loss of balance and finesse”.

In my panel, we turned our attention to the Microdistillery round, where every entrant was awarded a Gold medal – an extremely rare occurrence in The Global Spirits Masters series. Of Bullards Norwich Dry Gin, Calleja said: “I really like the cardamom notes here, and the hint of spice. It was quite peppery, so I could imagine it in a Martini with some cardamom bitters.” Also among the Gold standard lot, Spruce Gin was praised for its “complex, almost challenging” profile.

Manchester said of the round: “It has shown that there’s a very high standard among microdistilleries. It was very good across the board, and it shows that it’s possible to experiment while keeping a more classic style of gin.”

Following a diminutive round of Organic gins – where Hernö’s Old Tom edition and core expression bagged a Gold and Silver medal respectively – came an equally small selection of Genevers. Both By the Dutch Old Genever and Smeets Extra impressed my panel, and were likewise given a Silver and Gold. Lindsay said that while both expressions were to be commended, he would have liked to see a “more classic style of genever” on display.

Then, to one of the most anticipated flights of the day – Cask­-Aged – where an impressive five Master medals were bestowed by Gorn and Smith’s panels. Gorn enjoyed Martin Miller’s 9 Moons Barrel­-Aged Gin’s “smooth mouthfeel and long finish”, the “expressive” nature of Copenhagen Oak Gin”, and the “crisp cucumber” flavour of Makar Cask­-Aged Gin.

Meanwhile, Smith’s team gave the highest accolade to Citadelle Gin Réserve and Hernö Juniper Cask. “The sheer range of cask gins judged today illustrates the current innovations in the category, with many distilleries moving beyond simply oak ageing in ex­Bourbon casks,” commented Smith. A further eight Golds and three Silvers were awarded in the round.

Smith and Sherry’s panels then prepared their palates for the Navy Strength round – which showcased expressions bottled at or above 57% abv. Hernö Navy Strength Gin was named Master for its “very refined style”, while fellow Master Medalist Four Pillars Navy Strength Gin was deemed as having the “wow factor”. A further seven Golds and two Silvers were awarded in the round.

“We are seeing a more nuanced approach to this category, with people moving beyond just releasing a stronger version of their normal gin,” commented Smith.

Often confined to Christmas drinks trolleys in the minds of consumers, judges approached the Sloe Gin round optimistically. “It’s great to see a serious approach to this category,” added Smith. Four Golds and two Silvers were duly awarded. “The sloe gins we tasted today were very approachable in style,” Smith said.

(L­R): Nikolai Clerc, Anna Martinez, Luca Cordiglieri, Kristiane Sherry, Sam Mitchell, David T Smith, Jason Window, Tobias Gorn, Rui Costa, Ben Lindsay, Sarah Duffill, Cherry Constable, Nicola Thomson, Amy Hopkins, Ben Manchester, Brian Calleja

The final flight of the day – Flavoured – was also assessed by Smith’s panel. Judges were intrigued to see what flavours the round had in store, particularly as the starring role of juniper diminishes in line with increased experimentation among distillers. “Gently sweet and succulent” Spit Roasted Pineapple Gin – Batch 1 received a Master for its “lifted floral finish”. Its stablemate, Cherry Gin – Batch 1 was also praised for its “silky and juicy” texture, as well as its “subtly tartness”, and was awarded a Master.

With a wealth of Master, Gold and Silver medals bestowed, the level of excellence across the competition was clear. Judges were particularly impressed that increasing innovation has not seemingly resulted in less well­made spirits – it is good to see that the basics have not been forgotten.

“We’re seeing an improvement in quality and an increase in innovation, but also an improvement in how people are innovating,” concluded Smith. If excellence and newness continue to develop in tandem, spirits lovers have plenty of reasons to feel optimistic about gin.

Standard

Brand Owner Producer Name Medal
Aldi Stores Oliver Cromwell London Dry Gin Silver

Premium

Brand Owner Producer Name Medal
The Welsh Whisky Company Brecon Special Reserve Gin Gold
Quintessential Brands Greenall’s Extra Reserve Silver
Ladoga Group Barrister Gin Silver

Super Premium

Brand Owner Producer Name Medal
Sir Edmond Sir Edmond Gin Master
Rheinland Distillers Siegfried Rheinland Dry Gin Master
Diageo Tanqueray Rangpur Master
Quintessential Brands Thomas Dakin Master
Listoke Distillery Listoke 1777 Irish Gin Master
Glasgow Distillery Company Makar Glasgow Gin Master
Orkney Gin Company Johnsmas Gold
Soul Spiriti Curio Rock Samphire Gin Gold
That Boutique­y Gin Company Bathtub Gin – Batch 4 – Manhattan Meta­Bitters Cask­Aged Gold
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin – Old Tom Gold
Snow Donuts Hermit Dutch Coastal Gin Gold
Ian Macleod Distillers Original Edinburgh Gin Gold
Ian Macleod Distillers Edinburgh Seaside Gin Gold
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin Gold
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin – Cask­Aged Gold
Willem Barentsz Willem Barentsz Premium Gin Gold
That Boutique­y Gin Company Moonshot Gin – Batch 2 Gold
Spirit of The Lakes Bedrock Gin Export Strength Gold
Diageo Tanqueray No. Ten Gold
Quintessential Brands Opihr Silver
Beam Suntory Larios 12 Silver
Orkney Gin Company Mikkelmas Silver
Glendalough Distillery Glendalough Wild Botanical Gin Silver
That Boutique­y Gin Company Cherry Gin – Batch 1 Silver
Forest Spirits Bedrock Gin Export Strength Silver
Gordon Castle Scotland Tanqueray No. Ten Silver
Distillery No.209 No. 209 Silver
That Boutique­y Gin Company East London Liquor Company (That BLoauritioqs u1e2­yGin Co) Silver
Orkney Gin Company Mikkelmas Silver
Glendalough Wild Botanical Gin Glendalough Wild Botanical Gin Silver
That Boutque­y Gin Company Cherry Gin – Batch 1 Silver
Forest Spirits Kokoro Gin Silver
Gordon Castle Scotlan Gordon Castle Distlled Gi Silver
That Boutque­y Gin Company East London Liquor Company (That Boutque­y Gin Co) Silver

Ultra Premium

The Shropshire Gin CompanyTiger GinGold

Brand Owner Producer Name Medal
Masons Yorkshire Gin Masons Yorkshire Gin – Original Gold
Masons Yorkshire Gin Masons Yorkshire Gin – Tea Edition Gold
Masons Yorkshire Gin Masons Yorkshire Gin – Lavender Edition Gold
Hernö Gin Hernö Old Tom Gin Gold
The Reformed Spirits Company Martin Miller’s Westbourne Strength Gin Gold
Gebr. J. & M. Ziegler Gin 3 Gold
That Boutique­y Gin Company Hernö – Batch 1 (That Boutique­y Gin Company) Gold
Rademon Estate Distillery Shortcross Gin Gold
That Boutique­y Gin Company Cotswolds – Batch 1 (That Boutique­y Gin Company) Gold
Hernö Gin Hernö Export Strength Gin Gold
Hernö Gin Hernö Navy Strength Gin Gold
Atlantic Galician Spirits Nordes Silver
Global Ethics One Gin Silver
The Moorland Spirit Company Hepple Gin Silver
Chilgrove Spirits Chilgrove Bluewater Edition Gin Silver
45 West Distillers Burleighs Distiller’s Cut Gin Silver
Wild Thyme Spirits Colonsay Gin Silver
Hernö Gin Hernö Juniper Cask Gin Silver
Bramley & Gage 6 O’Clock Gin ‘Brunel Edition’ Silver
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin – Cask­Aged, Navy­Strength Silver
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin – Navy­Strength Silver

London Dry

Brand Owner Producer Name Medal
Catz Distillers Catz Dry Gin Master
La Martiniquaise Gibson’s London Dry Gin Gold
Aldi Stores Darleys Traditional Style Gin Gold
McCormick Broker’s Gold
Hernö Gin Hernö Gin Gold
Greensand Ridge Greensand Ridge London Dry Gin Gold
Spirit of The Lakes Bedrock Gin Gold
Chivas Brothers Beefeater London Dry Gin 40% Gold
Soul Spiriti Tyler Street Gin Gold
Blackwater Distillery Blackwater No.5 Gin Gold
Daffy’s Gin Daffy’s Gin Gold
Bruggeman MTK Belgian Dry Gin Gold
The Verdant Spirits Co Verdant Dry Gin Gold
Glasgow Distillery Company Makar Glasgow Gin Gold
Maison Ferrand Citadelle Gin Gold
That Boutique­y Gin Company Moonshot Gin – Batch 1 (That Boutique­y Gin Company) Gold
Berry Bros & Rudd No.3 London Dry Gin Gold
Diageo Gordon’s London Dry Gin – Traveller’s Edition Gold
Eaglesburn Distillery Eaglesburn Distillery Dry Gin Gold
Diageo Gordon’s London Dry Gin Silver
Quintessential Brands Greenall’s Extra Reserve Silver
DestilReal Lda Real Gin Silver
Forest Spirits Kokoro Gin Silver
Quintessential Brands Thomas Dakin Silver
Diageo Tanqueray London Dry Gin Silver
Anno Distillers Anno Kent Dry Gin Silver
Hardenberg­Wilthen AG Von Hallers Gin Silver
Chilgrove Spirits Chilgrove Bluewater Edition Gin Silver
That Boutique­y Gin Company Hernö – Batch 1 (That Boutique­y Gin Company) Silver
That Boutique­y Gin Company East London Liquor Company (That Boutique­y Gin Co) Silver
45 West Distillers Burleighs Export Strength Gin Silver
Chivas Brothers Beefeater London Dry Gin 47% Silver

Old Tom

Brand Owner Producer Name Medal
Masion Ferrand Citadelle Gin No Mistake Old Tom Gin Master
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin – Old Tom Gold
Hernö Gin Hernö Old Tom Gin Gold
Ladoga Group Barrister Old Tom Small Batch Silver
Glasgow Distillery Company Makar Old Tom Silver

Contemporary

Brand Owner Producer Name Medal
Four Pillars Distillery Four Pillars Spiced Negroni Gin Master
Hernö Gin Hernö Old Tom Gin Master
The Reformed Spirits Company Martin Miller’s Gin Gold
Drinks of Manchester Manchester Gin Gold
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin – Cask Aged Gold
That Boutique­y Gin Company Moonshot – Batch 2 (That Boutique­y Gin Company) Gold
OSS Craft Distillery AS Bareksten Botanical Gold
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin – Navy Strength Gold
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin – Cask­Aged, Navy­Strength Gold
45 West Distillers Burleighs Pink Edition Gin Silver
Brighton Spirits Company Brighton Gin Silver
Chivas Brothers Plymouth Silver
Four Pillars Distillery Four Pillars Rare Dry Gin Silver
International Beverage Caorunn Small Batch Scottish Gin Silver
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin – Old Tom Silver
Global Ethics One Gin Silver
Warner Edwards Distillery Warner Edwards Botanical Garden Melissa Lemon Balm Gin Silver
VII Hills VII Hills Italian Dry Gin Silver
Archie Rose Distilling Co Archie Rose x Horisumi Autumn Gin Silver
Warner Edwards Distillery Warner Edwards Harrington Dry Gin Silver
Kyrö Distillery Company Kyrö Napue Rye Gin Silver
Archie Rose Distilling Co Archie Rose Distillers Strength Gin Silver

Microdistillery

Brand Owner Producer Name Medal
Copenhagen Distillery Copenhagen Orange Gin Gold
Glendalough Distillery Glendalough Wild Botanical Gin Gold
The Independent Gin Company Bullards Norwich Dry Gin Gold
Drinks of Manchester Manchester Gin Gold
Hernö Gin Hernö Old Tom Gin Gold
Distillery 031 D’Urban Gin – Durban Dry Gin Gold
Dancing Sands Distillery Sacred Spring Dry Gin Gold
Rogue Ales & Spirits Spruce Gin Gold
We Build Brands Blind Tiger Gin Gold

Organic

Brand Owner Producer Name Medal
Hernö Gin Hernö Old Tom Gin Gold
Hernö Gin Hernö Gin Silver

Genever

Brand Owner Producer Name Medal
Bruggeman Smeets Extra Gold
By the Dutch By the Dutch Old Genever Silver

Cask­Aged

Brand Owner Producer Name Medal
The Reformed Spirits Company Martin Miller’s 9 Moons Barrel­Aged Gin Master
Copenhagen Distillery Copenhagen Oak Gin Master
Glasgow Distillery Company Makar Cask­Aged Gin – Matured In Oak Master
Maison Ferrand Citadelle Gin Réserve Master
Hernö Gin Hernö Juniper Cask Gin Master
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin – Cask­Aged Gold
That Boutique­y Gin Company Bathtub Gin – Batch 4 – Manhattan Meta­Bitters Cask­Aged Gold
That Boutique­y Gin Company Single Cask Bathtub Gin – Very Old Tom Cask Gold
Glasgow Distillery Company Makar Cask­Aged Gin – Matured In Mulberry Wood Gold
Distillery 031 D’Urban Gin – Barrel Aged Gin Gold
Rogue Ales & Spirits Pink Spruce Gin Gold
Hernö Gin Hernö Sipping Gin #1 Gold
Dancing Sands Distillery Sacred Spring Barrel­Aged Gin Gold
Kyrö Distillery Company Kyrö Koskue Rye Gin Silver
Chivas Brothers Beefeater Burrough’s Reserve 2.0 Silver
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin – Cask Aged, Navy Strength Silver

Navy Strength

Brand Owner Producer Name Medal
Hernö Gin Hernö Navy Strength Gin Master
Four Pillars Distillery Four Pillars Navy Strength Gin Master
Rogue Society Distilling Company Scapegrace Gold Gold
Elephant Gin Elephant Gin – Elephant Strength Gold
Ian Macleod Distillers Edinburgh Cannonball Gin Gold
Spirit Of Harrogate Slingsby Navy Strength Gin Gold
Wemyss Malts Darnley’s Spiced Gin Navy Strength Edition Gold
NB Distillery NB Gin – Navy Strength Gold
Chivas Brothers Plymouth Navy Strength Gold
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin – Navy Strength Silver
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin – Cask­Aged, Navy­Strength Silver

Sloe Gin

Brand Owner Producer Name Medal
Frederiksberg Distillery Sloe Gin Gold
Hernö Gin Hernö Sloe Gin Gold
Elephant Gin Elephant Gin – German Sloe Gin Gold
Warner Edwards Distillery Warner Edwards Harrington Sloe Gin Silver
Ableforth’s Bathtub Gin – Sloe Gin Silver

Flavoured Gin

Brand Owner Producer Name Medal
That Boutique­y Gin Company Spit Roasted Pineapple Gin – Batch 1 Master
That Boutique­y Gin Company Cherry Gin – Batch 1 Master
Warner Edwards Distillery Warner Edwards Victoria’s Rhubarb Gin Gold
Gordon Castle Scotland Gordon Castle Raspberry Gin Liqueur Silver
Gordon Castle Scotland Gordon Castle Plum Gin Liqueur Silver
Drinks of Manchester Manchester Gin Raspberry Infused Silver
English Drinks Company Cucumber Gin Silver
Warner Edwards Distillery Warner Edwards Harrington Elderflower Gin Silver

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